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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Traditional Mexican Food

Grinding chocolate on the metate, the traditional Mexican way

August 6, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

Most people probably think of chocolate as being European, but the cacao bean itself — the bitter seed that gives chocolate its taste — is native to Mexico.

The Mayans were the first to domesticate the crop, thousands of years before the Spaniards arrived. (The name cacao actually comes from the Mayan word kakaw.) Later, Mexica priests and other upper-class Aztecs drank ground cacao as a beverage, mixed with water and spices. The Mexica venerated cacao so much, in fact, that they used it as a currency and imposed a cacao tax on conquered villages.

Yesterday at cooking class, Yuri told us we were going to make chocolate from scratch, in the traditional Mexican way. We’d each grind 1/4 kilo of cacao beans on our metates, drawing out the natural cocoa butter until the beans turned into a thick, glossy liquid.

In keeping with the way the nuns used to make chocolate in Mexican convents, we’d each receive a portable flame to place under our grinding stone. The flame would heat the stone and melt the cacao a bit, making it easier to grind.

I had no idea what lie ahead of me — a common theme in this cooking class — so I kneeled on my straw mat and began grinding with high spirits. The beans crackled and crunched under my metlapil.

We’d toasted the cacao beans in the last class, so pulverizing them produced this nutty, kind of toasted-walnut smell, mixed with aromas of intense dark chocolate.
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Filed Under: Reflections, Traditional Mexican Food Tagged With: chocolate, metate, Mexican cooking school, sweets

Lessons in back-breaking Mesoamerican cooking: How to season a metate

July 16, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

Yesterday I trucked down to Mercado Merced and bought my metate, the lava-rock tablet and grinding stone I need for my cooking class.

I was a little worried that I’d pick the wrong one. Would it have enough of a slope? What if I got the wrong-size grinding stone?

When I got there, most of the metates looked the same, and there wasn’t much of a selection to begin with. (“There’s not much of a commercial demand,” one vendor explained.) I ended up choosing one with only a slight slope and a surface that didn’t look too porous. It cost 370 pesos, or about $30 USD.

The vendor wrapped it in string y ya, I was done; I carried my new metate on the Metro all the way home. My friend Julie, bless her heart, came with me to help bear some of the weight.

Yesterday at cooking class, everyone sat down to use their metates to grind nixtamal, the corn treated with slaked lime that would eventually become tortillas. Yuri had one question before we could all proceed: “Is there anyone here who hasn’t seasoned their metate?”

I waved my hand in the air. Naively, I had no idea what was involved.
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Filed Under: Learning To Cook, Traditional Mexican Food Tagged With: metate, Mexican cooking school

Homemade chicharrón, and puebleando

May 31, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

A few weeks ago, Crayton and I went puebleando for the first time. “Pueblear” is a Mexican word meaning “to travel to little towns and hang out.” There isn’t really an intinerary with you’re puebleando — you just get in the car and go. When you get to a town, you sit and hang out. Maybe buy an ice cream and people-watch in the square. There is absolutely no pressure to do anything.

We ended up in Zacatlán de las Manzanas, a pleasant, colonial-style town in the northern part of Puebla state. Accompanying us were our friends Jesica and Erik, and Jesica’s parents. They’d been to Zacatlán several times before, and so our first stop was at a panadería to buy some special pan de Zacatlán. They’re soft white rolls or empanadas stuffed with a crumbly, savory, almost cottage-y cheese. (This is also one of my new favorite phrases, because it has so much rhythm. Try saying it: PAHN de zah-caht-LAHN.)

I loved trying the bread — and to be honest, we bought a wee bit more than the local bread; also donuts and conchas and a muffin stuffed with cream — but the best part of the trip happened while we were walking to the church. On a little side street, a man stood in front of a huge cauldron of bubbling pork fat, making homemade chicharrón.

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Filed Under: Traditional Mexican Food, Travel Tagged With: chicharrón

Tortilla casserole with guajillo chiles, chicken, squash and panela cheese

May 21, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

You ever have those moments when you’re super busy, but you add one more thing to your plate anyway? And it comes with this tickle of dread, like, oh shoot, should I really be doing this? Do I have time?

I’m always cramming a million things into my schedule. Usually it turns out fine. But sometimes — like with this casserole — it doesn’t. Here I am, moving and packing, and I thought: “I’m going to make one last big meal in the kitchen!” At that moment I should have stepped outside myself, and given myself a “WTF?” look. But no. I listened. I brought out Diana Kennedy and bookmarked the “Caserola de Tortillas en Chiles Guajillos” page.

Fast forward one hour later. I was frantically pushing the sauce through a fine-mesh sieve, while it slowly dripped out the other side, one tablespoon at a time. It was 3 p.m. Crayton and I had not eaten since breakfast. My stomach growled. My feet hurt. My face felt flushed and my fingertips tingled, from seeding and de-veining more than a dozen dried chiles. Plus I’d toasted and ground some cumin seeds in my molcajete.

Diana’s recipe called for cooking the casserole on the stove, in a flame-proof dish. I don’t own one and figured I could just bake it in the oven. But now, faced with having to actually make that decision, I panicked. Wouldn’t baking it dry it out? Did I need more guajillo chile sauce? More broth? A more melty cheese? I’d also strayed from Diana’s recipe in other ways — adding chicken for some heft, adding veggies. I dunked the tortillas in the sauce and left them whole, instead of cutting them into pieces and pouring the sauce over them.

Really, my “authentic” caserola had become something else entirely: a pastel-azteca-sopa-seca hybrid. But what did that mean in terms of taste, and cooking time? Unfortunately, I didn’t have enough time to think about my desired end result, and devise a plan to get there.

So I winged it. Layered the tortillas in my casserole dish, interspersed with my fillings. I didn’t strain the sauce fully, because that took forever. Who cares if we all end up picking guajillo chiles out of our teeth.

The panela didn’t melt well, which I knew it wouldn’t, but I had secretly prayed that I would be wrong. We had no cilantro as garnish. Most terribly, I forgot to salt the sauce.

Lunch went on the table at 4:15 p.m., after two hours of cooking. I took a bite and kind of wanted to cry. It wasn’t inedible… it just wasn’t good, necessarily.

“I like it,” Crayton pronounced. He’s such a good husband.

The three lessons I learned that day:

1. Do not throw your kitchen a goodbye party when you’re in the process of moving, no matter how much you desire to give it the proper send off.

2. Do not crack open Diana Kennedy’s “The Essential Cuisines of Mexico” when you’re in a hurry to eat. The next time I pick a DK recipe — and it will be soon, because I adore her books — I will scan it to see what can be made in advance. For example, this chile sauce totally could have been made the day before. Then I would’ve remembered to add salt, and had time to fry my tortillas properly.

3. Experimenting in the kitchen is great, but not when you’re starving and your partner is depending on you for his sustenance. Next time order him a torta.

By the way, if you have any favorite guajillo chile combinations, I’d love to hear them. They just didn’t wow me this time around. (Or maybe it was the fact that they needed salt.) Maybe cinnamon?

Filed Under: Traditional Mexican Food

Mexican chef Martha Ortiz to open two new restaurants in DF

March 18, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

A few weeks ago, a little item in El Universal mentioned that Martha Ortiz Chapa is developing two new restaurants in the Mexico City. Ortiz was behind the much-heralded but now closed Aguila y Sol restaurant, which specialized in high-end Mexican cuisine. Her new projects will be part of the Las Alcobas, a chic new hotel that recently opened in Polanco.

I reached out to the folks at Las Alcobas, and they were kind enough to send me some information. Here’s what I got:

The restaurants will be called Barroco and Dulce Patria, and they’ll be be located inside the hotel at Presidente Masaryk and Anatole France. Both restaurants will “venerate Mexican gastronomic traditions.”

Barroco will offer exotic moles, tamales, and even buñuelos, throwing back to one of the greatest moments of Mexican culinary history. (Guessing the baroque age? The press release doesn’t spell it out.) Design will veer toward intimate and unpretentious, with Mexican artesanía objects on the tables. Look for it in mid-July of this year.

Dulce Patria will be more lively and colorful, with a bar serving cocktails, mezcal, tequilas, flavored Mexican raspados and other “pequeñas delicias frías.” (Love that phrase.) The food will include ceviches, tostadas, guisados colorados and aguas frescas crowned with flowers, among other items. The wine menu will also emphasize Mexican varietals. Look for it in mid-April.

I never got to try Aguila y Sol — it closed before I moved here — but I’m really looking forward to trying out Ortiz’s new ventures. Will give you a full report once they open!

Filed Under: Traditional Mexican Food Tagged With: Food, restaurants

Visions of shrimp and octopus dancing in her head

February 23, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Shrimp ceviche

Shrimp ceviche

I’m a huge seafood lover, and lately I’ve been in heaven.

Last Friday, my friend Alice and I went to the market in Coyoacán, which supposedly specializes in seafood. (And they have interesting stalls that sell honeyed lime peel.) We found a cute cafe and sat out on the patio, and gorged ourselves on ceviche, seafood cocktails and smoked marlin tacos. After lunch I bought some of that honeyed lime peel. It tasted pretty much like… lime peel. Oh well.

On Saturday, hubby and I went to Contramar, one of the best seafood restaurants in the city. Half the menu is appetizers, which is great because you can try a bunch of stuff at the same time. We had the tuna tostadas, with a smidge of creamy chipotle sauce and crispy onions; the pulpo a la gallega, drizzled in spicy oil that cried out to be sopped up with a hunk of country bread; and the crab tacos, huasteca style, garnished with large slices of avocado. Plus we had wine. And bread. And a slice of fig tart for dessert.

During the entire meal, I felt like I was emitting rays of sunshine. I already told Crayton we’re going back for my birthday.

For the food porn lovers, there are more pics after the jump.
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Filed Under: Traditional Mexican Food Tagged With: Coyoacán, mercados, seafood

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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