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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Streets & Markets

Who’s your mamey?

April 7, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Sweet, luscious mamey

Tianguis vendors love to offer food samples. If they’re not asking, “Que le damos, señorita? Linda? Guapa?” they’re yelling, “Mango! Papaya!” and attempting to shove a piece of it in your face. (As politely as possible.) On Sunday a guy offered me what I thought was papaya — a wedge of fiery sunset-colored fruit with a coconut-like rind. It tasted weird. Sweet, but not too much. The texture reminded me of cooked sweet potato.

“It’s mamey,” he said. Then he asked if I wanted to buy two or three.

I’d wondered about mamey. The name alone always enchanted me. Mah-MAY. Can’t you see that dangling from a palm tree? Or like, doing a rumba dance?

So I bought one. Sliced it open yesterday and found a strange, glassy black seed. It looked exactly like an alien’s eye, from the kind of alien that kidnaps people in the middle of the night. Kind of scary. But it made me love mamey all the more. It’s an alien fruit. A coconut-papaya-sweet-potato alien fruit. Mmm.

Now, what to make with it. Mamey muffins. Mamey pancakes. MAMEY ICE CREAM, PEOPLE.

Filed Under: Streets & Markets Tagged With: mamey

An overdose of Vitamina T

February 20, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

The cab driver I tipped two pesos yesterday told me “Vitamina T” is what chilangos call that especially yummy group of street foods — tacos, tostadas, tamales, tortas. (Not sure if tlayudas are in there or not.)

Funnily enough, a Mexico City guidebook I bought had a whole section on Vitamina T. And while I usually don’t eat much of that stuff, last night we were hanging out in the Centro, and after two beers we were kinda hungry. So we stopped at Cantina La Mascota. My guidebook had said the food was wonderful, and I think Anthony Bourdain filmed part of his Mexico City show there.

They were only a half-hour from closing, but the waiter said they still had some food left. He ended up bringing out a tray of carnitas, plates of pork in a spicy tomato sauce and a stack of hot corn tortillas. OH GOD. It was so good. As I dug into my fourth taco, I thought, “I may not like myself in the morning.” Then I continued sopping up the sauce.

They had a great jukebox there, too. This song got all the waiters smiling and bobbing their heads. (Gracias to Joy for being a great DJ.)

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8o02aHRQbg&hl=es&fs=1]

Filed Under: Streets & Markets Tagged With: tacos

Is it weird that I’m suddenly obsessed with tacos?

February 13, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

I’ve been making them at home all the time lately, probably because produce is so abundant and my tiny kitchen suits meals made with one pan. These are spinach and oyster mushroom, with a sprinkling of tomato. Bought all of it at the tianguis.

You can’t really tell, but the tomatoes are a deep, dark red. [insert dreamy sigh]

Next step: Finding sriracha.

veggie tacos

Filed Under: Streets & Markets Tagged With: street food, tacos

My first Mexico City tacos

January 31, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Tacos de cachete

The start of a beautiful relationship.

These came from a place in el Centro around 9:30 last night. They’re tacos de cachete, or beef cheek. I’m on a mission to try every part of the cow. Next stop: “tacos de nana,” or uterus.

Filed Under: Streets & Markets Tagged With: tacos

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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