19th-century Mexico City
There are an extraordinary number of street-cries in Mexico, which begin at dawn and continue till night, performed by hundred of discordant voices, impossible to understand at first…. At dawn you are awakened by the shrill and desponding cry of the Carbonero, the coalmen, “Carbon, Señor?” which, as he pronounces it, sounds like “Carbosiu?” Then the grease-man takes up the song, “Mantequilla! lard! lard! at one real and a half.” “Salt beef! good salt beef!” (“Cecina buena!”) interrupts the butcher in a hoarse voice. …Then passes by the cambista, a sort of Indian she-trader or exchanger, who sings out, “Tejocotes por venas de chile?” a small fruit which she proposes exchanging for hot peppers. No harm in that.
….
Towards evening rises the cry of “Tortillas de cuajada?” “Curd-cakes?” or, “Do you take nuts?” succeeded by the night-cry of “Chestnuts hot and roasted!” and by the affectionate vendors of ducks; “Ducks, oh my soul, hot ducks!” “Maize-cakes,” etc., etc. As the night wears away, the voices die off, to resume next morning with fresh vigour.
This is from the excellent Life in Mexico, written by Frances Calderón de la Barca, wife of the first Spanish diplomat to Mexico. It’s a collection of her letters while she lived in Mexico City from 1839-1842, and it’s a must-read if you’re interested in this city and its history.
The book is in the public domain, so you can read it for free online — UPenn’s digital library has a full copy, or you can listen to an audio version LibriVox. Or if you’re like me and you like turning physical pages, you can order the book on Amazon.
This is great. We keep thinking we should record all the current street sounds and make a CD with the gas guys’ call, the knife sharpener’s pan flute, the camote whistle, those ricos tamales Oaxaquenos, and, of course “Se compran colchones…”. Maybe the horns honking too 🙂
Yes, horns on Friday night especially. They’re in their own category. (When people lean on their horns on Friday nights, Crayton calls it the “honk of mourning.”) The tamales oaxaqueños jingle just makes me feel settled and at home — I’ll never forget how I heard it on the night of the first big quake a few months ago. Just listening to it made me think that everything was going to be fine.
That said, nothing beats the La Llorona voice of “se compra colchones.” 🙂 I think if I ever leave Mexico City I’m going to make it my ringtone.
I agree with Kate. The “tamales oaxaqueños, calentitos” is definitely a must on this list. That guy has his rythm! Has anyone mentioned the trash guys? They park the collector truck at one corner and one of the guys tolls a bell –non-stop– as he walks along the street. It is the alert for the neighbors to take the trash out, by this I mean to take the trash to the collector truck themselves. After a while, the strokes turn musical! 😀
Sorry. I misspelled “rhythm” above.
I love the trash bells. I also like walking on the sidewalk when they’re ringing them — the bells make taking out the trash seem almost pleasant.
Yes. Bells sound nicely. Homes should have bronze bells instead of the electric ones, as it used to be. It´d be more pleasant.
Thank you very much for sharing this post. It contributes to cultural knowledge. When we want to visit some place we see a lot of it through images: pictures, postcards, brochures, but the sounds are also an important part of it. I very much enjoyed being a member. Have a wonderful day!!!
“Gas de Oaxaca” which sounds like a sick cow (not sure that I’ve heard a sick cow but…). The camotes whistle defies description to those who’ve not heard it – or to those who’ve never heard a steam whistle of any sort. The ding-ding-ding-ding-ding of the paletas vendor. ?Chicle?
?Chicle? When I’m there I’m not always fond of the sounds of the Centro de Oaxaca; when I’m not there I’m a bit nostalgic for them.
P.S. The picture of the Zo’calo de D.F. is wonderful. The only time I’ve been there, there were no trees around the catedral.
I love this and I’ve always been fascinated by how lively Mexico streets have always been. I went to Mexico city in October and I heard the “se compra colchones” woman! I had heard it here on one of your posts and then heard it there. It was the strangest, most awesome thing!
Twice a week comes the naranjas dulces truck to our pueblito. There’s a recorded grito that goes something like “¡Naranjas dulces! ¡Tres kilos por veinte pesos! (Price is variable according to season.) Aproveche. Estamos ofreciendo naranjas dulces, plátanos; mangos dulces. Manda su niño o niña con su canasta o su bolsa …”
I’m uploading a small video now.
Saludos,
Don Cuevas
I cannot believe the coincidence; I am in the middle of this book which I started last week! It is fascinating and I think it is a must read for anyone living in Mexico – so many things have not changed at all.
I recorded the garbanzo vendor’s call in my neighborhood in SMA. I have no idea what he’s saying, nor does anyone else I ask. I wish I could figure out how to send it to you- or post it here.. it really sounds like Elmer Fudd.
I remeber the platanero…platanos, platanos 5 for un peso…. and the knife man…you would give him your knives and he would sharpen them.