I don’t have a car, so I take cabs in Mexico City at least once every two days. I’ve been pretty happy with the cabs here, but a small number of drivers have tried to cheat me, usually by giving me an inflated fare. Yesterday for the first time, a driver gave me the wrong change and then laughed when I told him he owed me 10 pesos. “I can’t give you 10 pesos because I don’t have it,” he said. “Sorry.”
This galled me. Sorry, I don’t have it? What was I supposed to do with that?
This morning I woke up before the sun came up and started thinking about all the things I’ve learned about taking cabs here over the past 2 1/2 years: always ask whether there’s a meter, pay attention to the route, carry small bills. I thought this might be interesting to other people, too, particularly people who live here or visit frequently.
I’m not complaining about Mexico City cab fares being too high, by the way. Taxis in Mexico City are much cheaper than what you’d pay in the States, and in fact I think rates in Mexico City are too low for the amount of time the drivers spend on the road.
But in the interest of ensuring that consumers get a fair rate — and in making sure they’re conscientious riders — here’s my advice on taking taxis in Mexico City.
1. Street vs. Sitio. If you’re a man, chances are you’ll be fine if you take a street cab. They’re the cheapest cabs in the city and the drivers always use a meter. For women, especially those traveling alone, it’s safer to take a sitio cab, or authorized taxi. Sitio cabs can be reserved by phone, or sometimes they’ll have a base on a certain street corner, like this:
Photo from viajemexico2009.blogspot.com
If you want to take a street cab anyway and you’ve never done it before, read this handy guide from MexExperience first.
2. Tarifa or taxímetro? If you’re walking up to an authorized taxi stand, ask them first whether there’s a taxímetro (meter) or tarifa (set fee). If the answer is tarifa, your next question should be, “Cuánto a la Colonia Roma?” or where you’re going. Ask this question outside — make the cabbie answer in front of his compañeros. If you wait to ask until you’re inside the car, chances are you’ll get a wildly inflated price, like 90 pesos from Polanco to Roma. Even taxis that appear to be normal may not use the taximeter, so don’t go by your gut instinct.
3. Beware of nice restaurants. It’s the end of the meal and you’re delirious with wine and cajeta-frosted tres leches cake. You don’t want to call a cab. Can’t the restaurant call one for you? Why, of course señora. The cab arrives, a plain sedan. You get in and arrive at your house 15 minutes later. The price: 225 pesos, or more than you’d pay on a trip to the airport. When you express outrage, the driver calmly tells you, “Ah no señora, esto es un servicio privado, no un radio taxi.” When dining at a nice restaurant and requesting a cab, ask the waiter whether it’s a servicio privado (private service) or a regular metered taxi. If it is servicio privado, STAY AWAY.
4. With a tarifa cab, don’t be afraid to negotiate the fare. Metered fares cannot be negotiated. At an authorized taxi stand that uses tarifas, however, you can ask, “Qué es lo más barato?” What is the cheapest you’d do it? Obviously it helps to have a handle on prices, so you shouldn’t ask unless you really know what’s fair. You can also feign that you’re insulted by saying, “Eso es abusivo!” That’s abusive! Only negotiate the fare if you are prepared to walk away.
5. Carry small bills. This isn’t so much about being ripped off as it is being respectful of the driver, who rarely has change. (He no doubt chooses not to carry large bills for fear of getting robbed.) This is important: If all you have is a 200 or 500 peso bill, advise the driver right away. He’ll usually pull over and get change, and it prevents him from cringing and saying “I can’t take that” at your destination later.
Don't use this to pay for a cab ride. If it's all you have, ask the driver to get change before arriving at your destination.
6. Have a route in mind, and pay attention to where the driver’s going. This obviously only works if you know the city, but I’ve had a handful of cab drivers take the long route for no apparent reason, simply because I didn’t specify which way to go.
Lastly, if the driver gets lost, you are perfectly within your rights to argue for a lower fare. I’m not talking missing the place by a block — I’m talking driving around for 15 minutes, searching for the address that he insists he can find, even though you’ve told him he’s going the wrong way. Pay him a just fare and then get out of the car.
If you have any advice you’d like to share about cabs in Mexico City or elsewhere in Mexico, I’d love to hear it.
Saving at the airport:
Jim Johnston’s book, Mexico City: An Opinionated Guide for the Curious traveler, advises you how to beat the expensive airport taxis – but only, unfortunately, in Terminal 1. If you take the escalator located in the main terminal between salas C & D, cross the ‘bridge’, walk to the end, then down the stairs on the left, you will be outside. There is a ‘sitio’ of metered taxis there. All of the airport personel use these, but there is no reason why you shouldn’t too. A trip to, for example, La Condesa, costs around $80 pesos instead of the 175 or more the “official” airport taxis charge.
Nick: I hadn’t heard about these taxis. Guess this works best if you’re not carrying a lot of luggage.
My wife and I took one of these sitio taxis last year. With two suitcases and a couple backpacks we fit just fine. It is amazing what those guys can do with luggage.
Great tips, Leslie! In the Puebla capital, taxis are not metered. The official cabs at the 4 Poniente bus station have set fares, based on distance (like in the DF airport), but other than those, riders must negotiate. I always do this when I call dispatch or before I get into a taxi on the street. If I don’t agree with the fare and can’t talk the driver down, I don’t get in. If someone is grossly overcharging, I say, “But I only paid X to get here!” and that usually does the trick. Fares here typically start at 35 pesos, and with gas prices rising in Mexico, they seem to be going up. If you like a particular driver — and have a Mexico cell phone — you can often arrange for the same person to pick you up later wherever they dropped you off. I’ve done this in Mexico City, too. ~Rebecca
Thanks Rebecca! Love the “I only paid X to get here” line. I hadn’t realized that Puebla taxis aren’t metered — need to remember that for my next trip there. Also, you’re right that a lot of taxi drivers are fine with giving out their cell phones. I’ve used a few drivers that way.
Thanks for this excellent advice. So many people have fears about taking taxis here, so this should help.
I agree that taxi fares are generally very reasonable here, often cheap. Although taxi drivers to not expect tips in Mexico I usually give one, as I think they are underpaid for their valuable and sometimes dangerous service. They deserve our generosity.
I’d also like to add that in more than 15 years of taking cabs in Mexico City–hundreds of them–I have never had an incident where I felt in any danger. I’ve been lucky, for sure, but I think the fear issue is often overstated (as it usually is about anything having to do with Mexico).
We had a taxista brandish an icepick in broad daylight in Coyoacan. I got the old lady and girl out and into a shop and he left his cab running and chased us! This, ostensibly because we were unwilling to pay twice what his taximeter read.
Louie: I’m at a loss for words.
Thanks for your comments, Jim. I’ll second that I’ve never felt unsafe in a Mexico City cab, ever. Frustrated at being overcharged, yes. But not unsafe. Also, you bring up a good point that the drivers deserve our generosity — after trying to drive in the city just once, I have so much more respect for the taxistas who face insane traffic (and equally insane chilango drivers) daily.
I have been reading about the comments on tipping taxi drivers. I have lived in and visited many Latam cities (including DF). The LOCAL custom is not to tip the driver not because the LOCAL population doesn’t want to tip them but due to economic conditions as a whole and therefore relative to LOCAL income conditions. I realize that our LOCAL conditions dictate that we tip, at times not even securing a reciprocal level of service. What we are doing is unnecessarily “tainting” LOCAL customs that in due course
affect the LOCAL people. We often tend to feel an “obligation” to try to change LOCAL habits/customs. In general, you don’t gain any REAL respect from the taxistas with your tipping as you are still viewed as a rich “bujo” (mostly american) gringo….. But then again each to his own….!
Here’s another tip for metered taxis. If it is a weekday, look at the meter before the flag goes up and make sure it says category “3.” If it reads “5,” the taxi driver has flipped some switch to charge you higher weekend and holiday rates. The meter will spin faster, trust me, a lot faster.
Tim: I had no idea! I had an experience once at Reforma 222 where the cab meter seemed to move awfully quickly, but I wasn’t sure how it could’ve happened. Is the category number on the left side of the fare amount?
Brilliant, brilliant, brilliant!!
bravo! excellent article, I live in Monterrey and visiting the charming City of Mexico is an adventure that calls for a moderate amount sagacity. Your article is insightful and practical. Congrats.
I would add a small appendix that has proven useful with the ever “forgetful of getting change” mexican taxi drivers (I am Mexican, and I recognize this is unacceptable) beofre getting on a taxi, KNOW how big your bills are (even if its a 50 peso bill or a 100 peso bill) because some irresponsible drivers wont even have change of a small bill (which undoubtedly they should) but it is a hassle when you arrive at your destination, and then you have to go get change when its the taxi driver´s fault.
As you get in the taxi, say “I have a 100 pesos bill (or whatever denomination you have) do you have enough change?” which in spanish sounds like: “tengo un billete de 100 pesos, ¿trae cambio?. This will save you a heap of trouble and uncomfortable circumstances. Mexico is beautiful, and its even more fun if you plan ahead for little inconveniences.
Excellent post, Lesley.
We have had only one or two “incidents” with taxistas, none of them dangerous. They are mostly annoying. Por ej, the driver who took us from the Hotel Milán in Roma Norte to Mercado San Juan by way of Paseo de la Reform and the Av.Júarez. It took 35 minutes, when it shouldn’t have been more than 15.
I too, did a taxi post on my other blog, called “Twisted Taxi Tales” http://cocinamexicana.blogspot.com/2011/02/twisted-taxi-tales.html
I awarded “Pendejada Points” to the worst taxistas.
The next driver took us from Luis Moya, near Mercado San Juan, to the ex-Comida China Mojing, by way of Av. Júarez again. But when I thought about that, it was because of the configuration of one way streets. We could have walked the approximately 6-8 blocks.
The worst incident in our Mexico City taxi history was with the jerk who drove us from TAPO to Centro by some traffic clogged route, then stopped to let us off in a tianguis in some unknown barrio, at least a kilometer from or hotel. I insisted, and he continued onward.
The most delightful taxista was the teenager who picked us up at Central de Autobses Norte, the day before Independence Day, and as he drove us to Centro, told us that it was his first day on the job. He got us as far as the reviewing stand on the Zócalo, about 4 blocks short of our hotel. We forgave him.
Nice article,the only thing I would add is that after 8pm all taxis in Mexico City have the right not to use the meter regardless of where you got them. Also after 8pm you will always have to negociate a price but you should expect a 20% increase in prices.
When my not so friendly taxi drivers start taking scenic routes I politely tell them “No quiero darle la vuelta a la ciudad, ya la conosco vayase por favor por {whatever way I know is shorter].
As you’ve mentioned, sometimes if you don’t know the city, prepare to get to know it…
Also, I’m sort of a …canija when it comes to taxis-Once in MTY a TAXI driver tried to charge us more than double what it costs to get from where we were to La Pulga. I know it was because some friends of mine were speaking in English as we approached the line of taxis, but when he told me the price (before we got in, of course) I laughed at him and said “Estas pedo, no cuesta eso ir a La Pulga!”. His comrades got a chuckle out of my outburst and offered much lower prices and started barganing over US!
One of my qualms of Mexico is the change thing…really? No one in the country has change, NO ONE. NO ONE. If I offer up a 100 peso bill and they can’t break it (and we’re talking for anywhere from 15 to 30 pesos back in change, I live kind of far out), I put my cab***a face on and say “Pues aver como le haces, o me trajiste de a grapa?”
They always seem to be able to cough up the change.
For the most part though, I’ve had lovely luck with the people who are kind enough to take me from point A to point B and have had some really great, sometimes enlightening conversations that bring me great joy.
that said, my bus drivers can ALWAYS break a 100 peso bill for me!
Checking the category is key as is checking the base price. An off-the-street taxi should start at $7.04 (some have still not adjusted their meters and so are at $6.40) and they go up by $0.86 centavos. Knowing that little basic helps to know when the meter is “fixed” or has been started at a too-high rate.
I have had many rides where I have to question the driver as to why the meter starts at “X” price. I usually get out if he’s unwilling to change to the correct fair (I rarely take sitios). I recently had an older driver try to charge me an extra $5 pesos because he forgot to start the meter as soon as I got in, and only remembered when I asked him about it (a whole 5 seconds after we drove off). I paid what I owed and got out.
If a driver doesn’t have change for a reasonable bill (ie: it cost me $35 pesos and I pay with a $50) he needs to find the solution or I’m not paying. Sorry, but they are providing a service and need to accommodate their clients more than I need to accommodate them (in an apparently “change-less” city it can be hard to always have the exact fair!). Some drivers are good though and will let you know at the beginning that you need to have exact change, as they do not have any.
Knowing your route is also key (or at least pretending). Sometimes if they sense that you’re unfamiliar with where you are going, you indeed get the scenic route.
I have to admit that taxi drivers are one of my greatest frustrations here. I don’t appreciate being taken advantage of just because I’m foreign or female.
These tips are helpful, not only for Mexico City but for Cairo as well…Although there aren’t the same sorts of cabs, knowing the fares, routes, and negotiating up front are all smart tactics.
Thanks!
Glad wordpress featured your blog. My partner and I are spending a week in DF later this month. We’ve been in Asia for the past seven years because of his job and have been mostly vacationing around here. I insisted it was time to take a non Asia holiday. I said, “I’m Mexican-American, you’ve never been to Mexico, I love DF, we are GOING.” My parents used to live there in the early 90s and I would visit often during my college breaks. I haven’t been back in nine years and I’m taking notes from your blog. Peace of mind really. I worry about our security so reading your blogs make me happy. That said, I’m hiring a car and driver for all our dinner outings. I’ve already booked Izote, Pujol, Biko and Hacienda de Los Morales. I’m going to continue reading your blog for restaurant suggestions!
Hi Lealdaza: For what it’s worth, I’ve lived here for almost three years and have never felt threatened or otherwise fearful for my safety. I think you’ll be surprised at how tranquil it can be, actually — and how nice the people are. All those restaurants sound great. I’d add Dulce Patria to the list (it’s in Polanco as well) and Dulcinea. For a more inexpensive place, you can’t go wrong with Con Sabor a Tixtla!
And for street cabs, I suggest to pay attention to taxis leaving passengers right on your sidewalk and to take one of them if you see there was no trouble, talking about safety and fares.
Thank you! This information has been invaluable for my upcoming trip to DF 😀
You’re very welcome! Glad you found this useful.
You don´t need to be ripped off in mexico city. If you use AUTOCAB servicess you will receive the same service as you are familiar with in england, germanny, spain, france, usa, etc.
just call 52-55-800-65-65 and book a cab. http://www.autocab.mx
you can book per day, per hour, at the momment.
we use the latest in dispach systems and GPS tracking in all our units.
Dear Miss Lesley,
Thank you very much for the brief, short and the useful points on Mexico City travel.
I am traveling for the first time and I find it very useful.
Thank you very much.
Akshay
I am mexican and I have been a tourist in Mexico city. My best advice is try Uber. Its safer and you don’t have to worry about money/change.
Hi Marifer: You’re right that since this post was published a few years ago, Mexico City has many more options now as far as taxis go. It’s now possible to hail cabs from your phone via Uber, Yaxi, and Easy Taxi. I’ve used all and been happy with all of them. Thanks for your comment!
I think its easier and safer. Its good to have more options
Is it safe to take cabs late in the night? thanks
Completely safe!
It is safe only if you hire the cab or taxi from the trusted source. Remember, if you hire cab from taxi operators than it is their responsibility to track the journey and drop you safely. But if you directly approach taxi drivers, than the information of journey is between you and driver, in that case may be you can face unpleasant situation…
I agree with Iliyas. One of the trusted sources that I used on my last trip to Mexico city was http://servantrip.com/personal-driver-service/
Dear all,
I would like to share with you my experience, my mom is Mexican and I visit her frequently, we meet a very safety private taxi service since many years ago, I know this gay runs his own business and he also can send you a bilingual taxi driver, I know about many terrible stories with normal taxis so I can strongly recommend you to try with him. Here the contact information arriaga.olvera@outlook.com Mr. Charly Arriaga
Stay away from CDMX taxis. From my hotel to me dentist costs around 50 pesos using Seto taxi, but CDMX taxis charges between 150 – 200 pesos.