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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

More Mexico City markets: Mercado San Cosme

July 21, 2011 by Lesley Tellez

Tostadas de pata at Mercado San Cosme in Col. San Rafael

The first time I went to Mercado San Cosme, a woman at a comida corrida stand called me cielo.

“Qué le doy cielo? Tenemos lechita, atolito, cafecito…” What can I give you, heaven? We have a little milk, a little atole, a little coffee…

I’ve gone to the market a few more times since then, and it’s become one of my favorites. The vendors are friendly and everything’s clean. Plus the surrounding neighborhood is charming, in an urban Mexico City kind of way. A stand outside the market sells thick slices of cake, in all different flavors; if you walk down Avenida San Cosme, the busy avenue directly north of the market, you’ll find open-air nail salons, advertised by plastic hands tinged in glittery acrylics.

Penny included the market as part of her photo workshop, so we stopped there one morning a few weeks ago. I felt a little more at ease taking pictures of strangers this time, but still not entirely comfortable — which means I need more practice.

I’m itching to visit another market. Any suggestions for which place I should visit next? And if you own a camera and live in Mexico City, do you want to come?

The cake stand outside the market

Filling a gordita with cilantro, onion and cheese

Check out those squash blossoms. They're one of my favorite quesadilla fillings.

Filling a quesadilla with cheese, before it hits the fryer

Puffy, golden quesadillas, from a stand in front of the market

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Filed Under: Mexico City, Streets & Markets

Previous Post: « What I love about Mexico City’s Centro Histórico
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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Luisa Lander

    July 21, 2011 at 12:47 pm

    The flower market in the Mercado Jamaica is just fabulous. (No, I don’t live in Mexico City.) But I don’t think the diminutive endings you quote on food and drinks translate to “a little,” any more than “en la tardecita” translates to “in the little afternoon.” I think such endings are frequently untranslatable, but you might check with a Mexican.

    • Ana

      July 30, 2011 at 4:36 pm

      Actually those are remains in the mexican spanish language of the way nahuatl was spoken, I heard that once but cannot prove. To me, the diminutive endings have more to do with being kind or softening the whole phrase.

      • Lesley

        July 31, 2011 at 10:14 am

        That’s a good way to put it, Ana. I wasn’t sure how to translate it, but to me, adding a diminutive ending does add a certain softness or implied familiarity with the other person.

  2. CF

    July 21, 2011 at 1:18 pm

    Once upon a time, a Canadian friend of mine dressed up her baby in one of those costumes fit for an Anne Geddes photo shoot…a chili pepper no less. She had me to go with her to a market somewhere in the Roma area and convince the vendors to allow her to photograph the poor creature amongst the produce. We finally got a nice lady to agree to let us prop him up in the jalapeños, then we got him smiling…only to find out her camera was out of battery power! Great memories…

  3. Averie @ Love Veggies and Yoga

    July 21, 2011 at 3:34 pm

    Awesome shots, Lesley! I have many similar ones and similar people in my own image stash and on some posts. The cabbage guy and the meat slicing guy I have 🙂

    Hope your having a nice week!

  4. Jay C.

    July 21, 2011 at 4:11 pm

    Lesley,
    Next trip to DF I’ll bring my bag and I’ll go shooting with you. Probably Sept or Oct.

  5. Steve Vender

    July 21, 2011 at 4:33 pm

    Lesley,

    As far as I’m concerned, you can’t take too many shots of mercados, food and people going about the business of preparing and selling food. Keep shooting. We love the photos.

  6. jaime

    July 21, 2011 at 6:02 pm

    Haven’t seen up to date photos from the Central de Abastos in a long time. Think some of your readers would be amazed.

    Jamie

  7. William Arxcher

    July 21, 2011 at 8:28 pm

    I’ll go with you Lesley. We might try the market in Xochimilco or maybe Sonora. The central de abastos is amazing (500K) people work there every day and they have a market inside!

  8. A Mexican Fiesta

    July 22, 2011 at 2:16 pm

    Hi Lesley,

    Thanks for this wonderful post on markets in Mexico City. What if you tried La Lagunilla or La Nueva Viga at Iztapalapa? Saludos!

  9. Ana

    July 30, 2011 at 4:41 pm

    Lesley,

    Now that you mention markets in Mexico City, have you gone to the witchery and sorcery market, the “Mercado de Sinaloa”?, try also the “Mercado de San Juan”, especially in the rainy season, there are lots of mushrooms and gourmet stuff.

    • Lesley

      July 31, 2011 at 10:13 am

      Hi Ana: I love the Mercado San Juan. Been there many times. I’ve been to Sinaloa, but it was during Halloween and the whole experience was traumatizing — *way* too many people, not enough room to walk, etc. It’d be interesting to go back specifically for the witchery and sorcery stuff.

  10. Geo

    August 5, 2011 at 12:05 am

    Hi Lesley, first time in your blog, and I’m rapidly becoming a big fan. I moved to Mexico City few months ago, so I’m always searching for valuable information of things to do and where to eat. Further than loving food, I find a pleasure in discovering new places where to eat. Also I love to take pictures.

    • Lesley

      August 5, 2011 at 8:05 am

      Hi Geo: Great to meet you, and bienvenidos al DF!

  11. Esperanza

    August 5, 2011 at 4:41 pm

    I am itching to go to DF, I haven’t been there in almost 15 years! When I head out there I def want to hit the markets, and Frida’s house-my personal pilgrimage, my Mecca.

    I’ll get a hold of you when I head out there, I’d love to scope out the city and get some amazing food (that chocoflan is making me hungry!!!!!) and pictures!

  12. Platanos, Mangoes & Me!

    September 2, 2011 at 12:27 pm

    Another worthwhile trip….

  13. Avex

    October 30, 2011 at 7:36 pm

    Im currently in Mexico city and loving it though extremely exhausted. From what I’ve gathered some food street vendors don’t lIke being photographed. It certainly hasn’t stopped me from capturing the amazing scenes. I will be going to some mercados tomorrow and I can’t wait!!

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Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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