The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Two years in Mexico City

by

At the end of January, we’ll have been in Mexico for two years.

I can’t believe it’s been that long. Seems like only a few months ago that I fretted about leaving my stocked pantry behind in Dallas, and I visited my first Mexican grocery store and ogled the lime-flavored mayonnaise. And now here I am. With another stocked pantry filled with Mexican beans, Indian spices, Mexican olive oil and various types of honeys. (The lime mayonnaise is in the fridge.)

Life in Mexico just feels more real now. There are plenty of things I hate about the city — the time it takes to visit the cell phone store or the bank, for example, or the crippling traffic at Christmastime — but overall I still feel really connected to this place. When I travel I look forward to coming home.

I love how the light blares through our windows every morning, promising 70-ish degree days and fresh food prepared on the streets. At sunset we can see the craggy silhouette of the mountains from our living room, when the smog isn’t too bad. A lot of evenings Crayton and I sit around and drink mescal from the gourds I bought at Mercado Sonora, or we walk to restaurant off Álvaro Obregón, my arm tucked into his arm, watching all the hipsters and couples and the vendors closing up for the evening, scrubbing their grills and pouring buckets of water onto the sidewalk.

I love that I eat a lot of corn, and I love that it’s not the mushy American stuff that bleeds sweet juice. DF corn is hearty, like a legume. I love the word for corncob: “mazorca.” I love the phrase that means “one and only”: mismísima. La mismísima Lesley Téllez.

I love that we ride our bikes everywhere and that I’m lucky enough to take tennis classes (for cheap!) at a local gym. And I just love the energy here, still. People come, people go. It feels like anything is possible.

I still have no idea how long we’ll be here, but here’s to another two years.

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Comments

  1. I’ll be celebrating 1 year in Mexico City as of January 21. Your blog has been a big help to me, knowing I’m not alone in the things that I love and that frustrate me about this city. Your blog has been like a companion to me. Thanks for that!

  2. ¡Cómo pasa el tiempo!I feel the same way about our three years in n.y.c.

    Thanks for sharing your d.f. adventure with us, Leslie!
    xogabriela

  4. Hi Lesley – congrats on your courage to make the move – I know the challenges of living in Mexico after growing up in the States. But is is because of this time (in Oaxaca)that I have hungered for more of it’s land, foods and connection to a wonderful culture. So what can I do to show it off, but to become a Mexico Travel Specialist, a relatively new endeavor for me. Good luck in your continued adventures!!

  5. Happy DF anniversary! 😉 I always enjoy your posts and it’s great to hear that you guys are planning to stay for while longer! Cheers!

  7. As we approach our 13th. anniversary of living in Mexico, I, too, am thinking about all that I love about this heart-warming country. The best part is the openness and friendliness of the people. Maybe the food is second. You have encouraged me to take a good look around at all that I value here. Thanks for the warm feelings this post brought me. Happy anniversary.

    Kathleen

    • You’re welcome, Kathleen. I agree that the people are a huge part of making my experience so great here. I’d say food and people tie for number one. 🙂

  8. Dammit; this made me cry. 🙂
    Here’s to as many years as it’s right for you to be in Mexico City and call it home. And here’s to your gym! ;0

  10. Gracias por este post. I’m a chilango that has lived in Chicago for the last six years and I think I could have written a similar post about this city back in 2007, when I had been here only for a couple of years. Now that Chicago has truly become “home” to me, this long trip seems to be reaching its final chapters and I really don’t know what to think or feel. But your post reminded me just how great life can be in Mexico city, in spite all of the things that we hate about it.

    • Thanks for sharing, Juan. Your words resonated with me, about a trip reaching its final chapters and how you’re not sure what to think or feel. I’m not there yet — I don’t think we’re in our final chapters in Mexico — but I’m definitely not as confident as I used to be that we’d stay here for decades.

      I wish you luck in sorting it all out! And yes, for me it’s important to remember how good things can be here… especially on days when the traffic or customer service are particularly awful.

  11. I retired and wanted to go live in Mexico (Guadalajara) but then I started a business and now your post makes me live in Mexico vicariously (did I spell that correctly?).

    Hopefully things will improve in Mexico or things will get so bad here in the USA (the Tucson shootings) that I will end up in Mexico.

    Cuidese Mija

    • Hi Armando: Yep, you spelled it right. 🙂 There are a lot of retirees in Mexico, so you’re definitely not alone on that front. You may very well end up here someday!

  12. Congratulations!! You’ve been here long enough to become a galvanized mexican.
    If you can escape Mexico City next Saturday we are doing a Pulque Hacienda tour and Dinner.
    DINNER AND TOUR AT A PULQUE HACIENDA
     VISIT THE HACIENDA THAT SELLS THEIR PULQUE IN THE ZONA ROSA
     HEAR STORIES AND LEGENDS OF THE TOWN OF TLAXCO
     VISIT THE SILVER WORKSHOP OF EVA MARTINEZ THAT SPECIALIZES IN AUTHENTIC REPRODUCTIONS OF COLONIAL JEWELRY USING THE LOST WAX PROCESS.
     SEE HOW AGAVE PLANT JUICE IS EXTRACTED AND TAKEN TO THE BREWING VATS WITH AN EXPLANATION OF THE PULQUE (CACTUS JUICE) CULTURE.
     ENJOY A SUCCULENT DINNER OF THE HACIENDA OWNERS FAMILY RECIPES ALONG WITH NATUREL AND FRUIT FLAVORED PULQUE.
     RETURN TO TLAXCALAS GOVERNMENT PALACE FOR A TOUR OF THE MURALS OF DESIDERIO H. XOCHITIOTZIN.
     COST: $450 PESOS…. WHICH INCLUDES: BUS, ROUNDTRIP FROM PUEBLA & TLAXCALA TO THE HACIENDA.
     BILINGUAL GUIDES…ENTRANCE FEES & DINNER AT THE HACIENDA.
    …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………
    THE BUS LEAVES PUEBLA FROM PLAZA SAN PEDRO NEXT TO CALIFORNIA RESTAURANT AT 8.30 AM …SATURDAY, JANUARY 22ND. TOUR STARTS IN TLAXCO AT 11.00 AM. BUS RETURNS TO TLAXCALA AT 7 PM… TO PUEBLA AT 8 PM. ON SAME DAY.
    CALL BOB OR RAQUEL AT……
    01 241 41 80553 (APIZACO)
    045 241 102 28 06 (CELL)
    or email me at
    dixiefried12@yahoo.com
    ………………………………………….
    You aint a Mexican till you chug a lug pulque.

    • Hi there: Thanks for the invite! Unfortunately I can’t make it on Saturday. I’ll get in touch about any future tours you might be doing — they sound fun.

  13. two years, how time flies..we are planning a extended visit after hubby completes grad school. I cannot wait my heart aches to back in mexico, take care and here’s to many more wonderful posts!
    sweetlife

  15. Hi Lesley, congrats! I have really enjoyed your blog for the last few months. I am on the other hand packing up my bags after 11 years in NYC… too many memories. Continue blogging and making us part of your experiences!

  16. Lesley congrats on everything you’ve done with this blog; it really is brilliantly put-together, a big inspiration and a challenge to me. I’ve learned so many bits and pieces from reading you. I think you introduced me to piloncillo, and to the whole suitcase packing thing on New Years Eve (that was you wasn’t it?). I’m not sure how much longer I’ll be in Mexico, but wherever i am, i’ll definitely be reading…

    • Thanks so much Phil. Your comment means a lot to me. Yes, it was me who talked about the suitcase-packing thing on New Year’s Eve. Incidentally we didn’t do it this year, which I think is supposed to mean I’m not going to travel. (Already not true, I’ve gone on two trips.)

      • I didn’t pack a suitcase either; second year in a row that travelling over New Years has limited my ability to pack suitcases/buy colourful knickers.

        There was some debate about whether you should run down the street with the suitcase, or leave it packed by the front door. Guess it’s a regional thing.

        Happy travels this year…

  17. Hi Lesley,

    As a fellow expat also living in DF I love reading your blog! I was curious, what gym do you take tennis lessons at?

    Thanks!

    • Hi Whit: I take classes at the Junior Club. It’s in Condesa, at the border of Escandón. I like it — they’ve got clay courts and the lessons are about 180 pesos for an hour. (That’s a private, one-on-one lesson.) The catch is that you have to be a member. Hope that’s helpful!