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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Unlocking the secrets of the alegría

September 2, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

A package of alegrías, bought from a street vendor in Mexico City

UPDATE DEC. 2012: I have learned since I wrote this post (more than 3 years ago now!) that the items pictured in the above photo are *not* alegrias, but pepitorias. And I still love them just as much. There’s nothing better for when you’re hungry and stuck in traffic in Xochimilco.

The first time I saw an alegría pepitoria, clutched in the hand of a Mexico City street vendor, I wasn’t exactly sure what it was. “Alegrías!” the vendor yelled. “Diez pesos!”

The item, wrapped in cellophane, looked like a half-moon shaped party favor — one of those bright, tissue-paper spheres that you unfold and hang from the ceiling. Except it had little pumpkin-seed teeth lining its edges.

I wondered about the alegría pepitoria for a long time — what do Mexicans do with this? Do people really have that many fiestas, where they feel the need to buy party favors on the street? — until finally, when I was in traffic one day, I saw a family buy a package. The father opened it, pulled one out and ate it.

It was food!

Of course it was food.

But still: This thing looked like a paper taco that had the air sucked out of it. What…? Why…?

Strolling through the Alameda Central last Friday, my curiosity finally got the best of me. I bought a package and carefully laid it in my bag, so I could bite into later it at home and savor the first bite.

That evening, I tore open the package. I took out a pink one — three or four were included in the package — and bit into it.

CRUNCH.

Whoa. That was a seriously massive crunch. And then… oh. [Picture me munching thoughtfully.] This was like a wafer. Thin, sugary, but not too sweet. And wow. The pumpkin seeds were attached to the edges with honey. I’d wondered about that.

I bit into it a few more times, each bite capturing the same crunch you’d get biting into a fresh carrot. Took a picture before I could demolish the whole thing.

A papery thin alegría, just before I gobbled up the whole thing

Next time I’m hungry for something sweet on the street, I’m buying a package of these odd little guys. And if anyone out there knows the history of how they’re made, please fill me in. All I could find on the Internet was info about the other Mexican alegrías — the bars made from honey and amaranth grain.

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Filed Under: Streets & Markets Tagged With: candy

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. alice

    September 2, 2009 at 11:24 am

    I don’t think these ones are called alegrias, I have always known them as “obleas” literally wafers or “pepitorias” because those pumpkin seeds are mainly called “pepitas”. I guess that’s why you couldn’t find them. I found this recipe: http://www.recetasgratis.net/Receta-de-Pepitorias-receta-9300.html And the obleas you can find in most dulcerías.

    🙂

    • adan gutierrez

      December 3, 2012 at 11:07 pm

      I am sorry but those are not alegrias they are called pepitorias, alegrias are made from amaranto, I was born and raced in Mexico City and lived there for
      42 years

      • Lesley

        December 4, 2012 at 3:03 pm

        Hola Adan: Yes, as you see in the previous comments, I was aware that I used the wrong name. I have now corrected the original blog post to include the name “pepitoria” instead of alegria.

  2. Margaret

    September 2, 2009 at 2:35 pm

    These “obleas” are made from the same stuff as communion wafers, but different in that they are bigger and coloured, of course.

    “Alegría” is the name for amaranth, and “dulce de alegría” is the sweet made from amaranth seeds popped, mixed with honey and pressed into blocks, sort of on the principle of a Rice Krispie square, (of course the amaranth seeds are much smaller than rice krispies) but much less sweet and sticky, and more crumbly; often with pepitas, raisins, and/or pecans pressed into the top. Here is a photo.

    At Día de los Muertos time, you can even find calaveras made of alegría.

  3. Lesley

    September 2, 2009 at 2:46 pm

    So I guess I got the name wrong? Weird, because I swear that the vendors call these alegrías. Even saw a mention of that name on Flickr in a few spots. Maybe it’s just a weird Mexico City thing.

    And Margaret, I would LOVE to try a calavera made of alegría! (Assuming people actually eat them.)

  4. Obet

    September 2, 2009 at 4:31 pm

    I am sure that the seller said “alegrías” it is the traditional form as the sweets sellers usually “call to shop” in Mexico City no matters what kind of tradicional sweet they sell. I have heard them too.

    • alice

      September 3, 2009 at 10:02 am

      Yes, I think that too, they all use Alegrías interchangeably, but the amaranth ones are the real ones. Have one for Day of the Dead.

  5. chilangoso

    September 28, 2009 at 3:30 pm

    Yep, definitely Alegrias is the way that candy *ambulantes* call his *marchantes* -an informal way to name the regular customers at the street – no matter what are they selling: Mueganos, cocadas, gaznates, palanquetas, etc. These ones from the picture are called *pepitorias*

  6. Lesley

    September 28, 2009 at 3:36 pm

    Cool, I had no idea! Thanks for the info. Guess “pepitoria” is much more clunky to yell out loud than “alegría.” 🙂

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Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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