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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Palacio de Hierro: My new favorite place to spend an hour, drooling

September 10, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

The food section at Palacio de Hierro in Roma. The chocolate fountain is hidden from this angle.

Alice had told me about the greatness of Palacio de Hierro’s food department, but I wasn’t prepared when I walked in to the Roma branch for the first time a few days ago.

Baskets brimmed with golden-brown loaves of bread, and mounds of candied, chili-powder dusted fruit. Exotic salts and truffles and jams (lime cardamom!) piled up on a shelf, each bearing the name of famous Mexican chef Monica Patiño. (Who knew she had her own food line?) Dazzling rows of chocolates sat inside glass cases. And then there were the bonbons.

“Bonbon” means chocolate-covered marshmallow, and these things looked so perfect, I wanted to dump a basket into a blanket and walk out, Santa-Claus-style. They were plump, chewy little tufts of cotton, covered in chocolate and nuts. I couldn’t resist buying one.

Palacio also has traditional Mexican candy, and after I came down from my bonbon high, I realized this would be a great place to buy a few gifts. Can’t tell you what I bought, because the recipients may be reading. (Heh heh.) But on display were much of what you’d see in a typical candy store: jamoncillo, cocada, obleas, puffs of meringue, amaranth bars, and piles of waxy-looking, candied camote and chilacayote.

You can see the sweet potato at the left.

You can see the sweet potato at the left.

Apple slices, rolled in chili powder.

Apple slices, rolled in chili powder.

They’ve also got an extensive wine department (bought a Shiraz from Parras for about 220 pesos), and a deli that sells sandwiches, salads and chiles en nogada. And there’s a fresh cheese and meat department, with big ol’ jamon serrano thighs hanging from the ceiling.

After about 30 minutes of mindless wandering — I admit I stared lustfully at the jamón serrano thighs — I paid for my purchases and left. But when I got home, I unwrapped my bonbon. You don’t want to know how good it was.

A chocolate-covered marshmallow from Palacio de Hierro in the Roma neighborhood of Mexico City

INFO
Palacio de Hierro
Durango No. 230, at the corner of Durango and Avenida Oaxaca.
Col. Roma, C.P. 06700. México, D.F.
Telephone: 5242-9000
Open Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Sunday, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.

Note: Palacio is a high-end department store, and the gourmet section is inside. It’s located on the first floor (planta baja), right off the main Oaxaca Avenue entrance.

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Filed Under: Mexico City Tagged With: candy

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Gemma

    September 10, 2009 at 3:42 pm

    LOL, upon my return to the U.S. from Mexico City, I spent a few hours (yes, hours!) futzing around on the gourmet section of Palacio de Hierro’s website. Then, I sent them an e-mail asking if they deliver to the U.S.

    Their response was no, NOT YET, in very flowery and formal Spanish. You can go ahead and order anything you wish and pay for it online, then pick it up at the PdH of your choice when you are in Mexico. Rats!

    Guess I will just have to wait to experience my rose petal infused olive oil…

    xo G.

  2. Ruth Alegria

    September 10, 2009 at 8:54 pm

    You should have asked the price of the Pata Negra Jamons on the wall, unbelievable, but so then is the flavor !

    Was able to get a a taste once from a friend who buys one for the Christmas Holidays and has enough to go straight through Candelaria on Feb. 2.

  3. Daniel H.

    September 11, 2009 at 11:44 am

    Funny I just went nuts at the downstairs “gourmet” section of the Palacio de Hierro in Centro Historico, yesterday with my Mom.. Good wines, good meats, good sauces, exxxxcellent fresh-baked cookies..

  4. Don Cuevas

    September 13, 2009 at 5:17 am

    I gotta get over there sometime when we are in Col. Roma.
    But I’d probably prefer places like Mercado San Juan, where we’ve been, for their more down-to-earth ambiente.

    ¿Can you get live gusanos de maguey at Palacio de Hierro?

    Saludos,
    Don Cuevas

  5. Lesley

    September 13, 2009 at 11:13 am

    Don C.: I didn’t see any live gusanos there… unless they’re available by special-order only? (I’m guessing not.) Mercado San Juan or a tianguis is probably a better place for that. I adore Mercado San Juan, too, but sometimes I just want to spend 20 minutes staring at gourmet chocolates. Palacio is perfect for that.

  6. Luis

    September 19, 2009 at 1:44 am

    You should also try Liverpool’s candy selection. They have a decent gourmet store with a bakery, restaurant and take out. Both stores (Liverpool and Palacio) complement eachother. By visiting a shopping mall such as Santa Fe or Perisur you’ll have both close to eachother… twice as much fun.

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Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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