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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

My week of gluttony, Southern-style

September 21, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

I’m back from the South, and I feel like a stuffed penguin.

A few pounds is worth it, though. (Half of me just cringed. It is?) Yes. It is. Sometimes you have to ignore pesky little “calories” and submit to the lure of bacon, cheese and mayonnaise. Just for a few days.

Sometimes you gotta just order a pimento cheese sandwich for lunch, bulging with grated cheddar and mayo.

A pimento cheese sandwich from The Sweetery in Anderson, South Carolina

And then go home and make a buttermilk pie for dinner.

Buttermilk pie, made with love at Oma's House in Starr, South Carolina

Sometimes you have to buy honey-roasted pecans from a small-town Georgia gift shop, because, well, it’s a small-town Georgia gift shop. And they serve the nuts in paper cones!

Honey roasted pecans from a gift shop in Cave Spring, Georgia

But all that doesn’t even come close to my most gluttonous of gluttony acts, committed while we were in Atlanta. My friend is a restaurant critic there, and last Friday, he took us out for a fabulous meal at Cakes & Ale, a “farm-to-table” style restaurant (in the parlance of our times) where most of the food is made with locally grown produce.

While we stuffed our face with fried okra with homemade ranch, smoked salmon with beets, rabbit terrine, trout, bean salad with bacon, and the most heavenly pork chop ever, covered in crunchy breadcrumbs and fried in clarified butter (somewhere, I just heard my mom gasp) — we happened to bring up hamburgers. My friend mentioned that a restaurant nearby had one of the best burgers in Atlanta. Would we be interested in dining there, after this meal?

Only someone as loony about food as I am would suggest eating dinner at two restaurants in one night. But I loved my friend for it. With stars in my eyes, and a burger-inspired flush in my cheeks, we headed to Holeman & Finch Public House in Buckhead.

The H&F burgers are kind of a cult thing in the city right now — they’re not on the menu, and the kitchen just rolls ’em out at 10 p.m. You get them while they’re hot.

At about 10:30 p.m. — even though I’d already eaten a three-course dinner — I had the juiciest, moistest burger I’ve ever had in my life.

The kitchen staff at Holeman & Finch in Atlanta, Georgia, prepares hot and juicy burgers (not on the menu!) at 10 p.m.

The next day, I nursed my food hangover with salad and water. But Sunday, there was more.

For brunch, we dined at Greenwoods on Green Street, a home-cooking restaurant in Roswell, Georgia, just north of Atlanta. Our plates filled the entire table. You could seriously barely see the wood.

We had fried green tomatoes….

Fried green tomatoes at Greenwoods on Green Street in Roswell, Georgia

And corn muffins… made with white corn, not that blasphemous yellow stuff.

Crunchy, hot corn muffins from Greenwoods on Green Street in Roswell, Georgia

We had fried chicken, with a sheen of oil still clinging to its crunchy, hot flesh.

Fried chicken from Greenwoods on Green Street in Roswell, GA

I ordered a truly insane slab of meatloaf, topped with a few curls of onion.

A thick slab of meatloaf at Greenwoods on Green Street in Roswell, GA

And then came the pie.

Apple. Buttermilk. And dark chocolate, topped with messy tufts of whipped cream.

Absolutely sinful dark-chocolate pie from Greenwoods on Green Street in Roswell, GA

When we got to the airport a few hours later, I could barely keep my eyes open. “Just let us win!” the pie whispered to me. “Just go to sleep!” But I stubbornly stayed awake. The pie and its sugar-coma powers would not take me down.

So, now, finally back home in Mexico City, I am wearing my elastic-waistband pajama pants and wincing at the thought of putting on jeans to go to the grocery store. But I need detox food — veggies, fruit, tofu. Crayton rolls his eyes when I crow, “I’m going on a detox!” because I never stick to it, but this time I swear it’s true. It’s soups and salads for me, for the next few days. And I don’t want to see red meat again for two months.

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Filed Under: Travel Tagged With: pie, Southern cooking, the South

Previous Post: « Exploring my Southern side in Anderson, South Carolina
Next Post: Why hasn’t Mexico City embraced hip-hop? »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Brianna

    September 21, 2009 at 12:31 pm

    Wow! It all looks incredible. And I thought WE did a good job with our Baja Lasagna.

  2. Leslie Limon

    September 21, 2009 at 2:18 pm

    I have got to stop reading your blog after lunch. I get hungry again after reading it. All that wonderful food reminds me of my great-grandmother.

    Anyway, for your detox, go the Mexican way….Pineapple all day! Pineapple juice in the morning, chunks of pineapple and lots of agua de piña throughout the day. Agua de Jamaica is also good for detox, but it has to be tart and strong!

    Glad you had a pleasant vacation!

    • Lesley

      September 22, 2009 at 9:10 am

      Thanks for the tip, Leslie! I’d never heard of a pineapple detox before, but it makes sense. I’m feeling a lot better today — I suffered through a spinning class last night, and sweated out some of those red meat/chocolate pie/fried chicken toxins. My motto for the rest of the week is “light and healthy.” 🙂

  3. LaZorra

    September 21, 2009 at 8:59 pm

    Whew! I’m stuffed just reading your column!! all that food looks wonderful — but that last piece of chocolate pie with whipped cream did me in! Dinner twice in one night, how did it fit in everyone’s tummy? You really had a lovely time!

    A nice long walk would go nicely with detox agua de jamaica! (Bonus: You can post some more lovely photos for us to enjoy!)

    • Lesley

      September 22, 2009 at 9:08 am

      LaZorra: That last piece of chocolate pie did me in, too! Afterward I couldn’t even think of chocolate without feeling like I’d just swallowed a pound of sugar. (Probably because I *did* swallow a pound of sugar.) But MAN was it worth it.

  4. Lisa (dinner party)

    September 23, 2009 at 3:33 pm

    OMG, all of this looks beyond delicious.

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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