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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

A day in Santa Maria la Ribera

February 19, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Santa Maria moorish kiosk

The New York Times recently touted Santa Maria La Ribera as Mexico City’s next big bohemian neighborhood, surpassing the apparently played-out Condesa and Roma. Turns out I actually have a friend, Jesus, who lives there. We knew each other in Dallas.

He invited me out for a neighborhood tour on Tuesday. We stopped for doughy empanadas and sweet Russian punch at Kolobok, a Russian restaurant on the square, and we wandered through the park (home to the historic Moorish Kiosk above) and the market.

Unlike Polanco, where high-end clothing stores and trendy cafes abound, Sta. Maria seems like it hasn’t changed much since 1950. Some of the restaurants had masa machines set up near the doorway, where long, soft cylinders of masa rotated on a mechanical spit, waiting for hands to rip off a piece and pat it into a tortilla.

In another store, two young boys cranked out tortillas on an old-fashioned press. The streets were quiet, except for the occasional car horn. (“Klaxon” in Spanish.)

After we stopped for a celery-pineapple juice and a freshly made quesadilla, I was officially in love with this neighborhood. Too bad it’s too far away from Crayton’s job and not near a subway stop.

More pictures after the jump.

Santa Maria moorish kiosk 2
Santa Maria moorish kiosk 3
Santa Maria moorish kiosk 4

Awww... homely teeth.

Awww... homely teeth.


Chicken in Santa Maria la Ribera's mercado
Mercado flowers
Flor de calabasa quesadilla

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Filed Under: Mexico City Tagged With: Santa Maria La Ribera

Previous Post: « My new favorite drink, next to licuados
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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Mommie

    February 20, 2009 at 7:54 pm

    What are the yellow/orange things in front of the man?
    Are the blue flowers real? If so, how did they get them to be blue?
    And…. I absolutely love the dentist picture. A place where the whole family can go. 🙂

    • Lesley

      February 20, 2009 at 9:01 pm

      Those yellow things are chickens. Sorry the picture isn’t the greatest. And the blue flowers are real — I think they put blue food coloring in the water.

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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