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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Zona Rosa

Korean food in Mexico City

October 8, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

A packet of lettuce, grilled meat, garlic and jalapeño, at a Korean restaurant in Mexico City

As I’ve mentioned before, Mexico City’s Korean neighborhood sits just a few blocks from my house. A few weeks ago, we finally made it out to a restaurant there, courtesy of my friend Hugh.

He’d raved about this certain Korean restaurant in an email, saying he didn’t know the name, but it was at Oxford and Hamburgo in the Zona Rosa, “the spot next to the strip club, with the suits of armor out front.”

A big group of us agreed to meet there on a Saturday night at 7:30 p.m. We walked up and sure enough, there were two suits of armor. (Great landmark, Hugh!) The restaurant ended up being a narrow, two-story building next door, with a terrace overflowing with balloons. A back room on the first floor held one table just big enough for the 11 of us.

While we waited for the staff to clean it, a group of Korean kids, maybe nine or 10 years old, stared in awe at our friend John, who happens to be really tall. One kid walked up to John and jumped up and down, eager to see what life might look like in John’s orbit. It was adorable.

The Mexican waiter brought us thick menus, and I felt a little panicked. I’ve eaten Korean food a few times before, and loved it, but it’s kind of overwhelming to stare at five pages items, and you’re not entirely sure what they are. We all agreed to share everything family style, so I ordered soup with merluza (hake), egg and vegetables, and we got several orders of grill-and-your-table ribs and skirt steak, and bibimbap, more soups, and dumplings.

Just a few minutes after we ordered, the waiter brought out dozens of small dishes: kimchi, plates of what looked like glass noodles, a type of mayonnaise salad with apples, tempura shrimp….

Small plates of tempura shrimp, glass noodles and pickled vegetables, at a Korean restaurant in Mexico City

We nibbled. And then the meat came out. We turned on tabletop grill, and designated Joy’s friend H. as grillmaster.

Beef cooks on the tabletop grill, at a Korean restaurant in Mexico City

When the meat was done, H. showed us how to make these lettuce-wrap packets, by grabbing a lettuce leaf, slathering it with spicy red sauce, adding garlic, a piece of meat, and then a jalapeño. Of course I had to add two jalapeños, because I’m hard like that. Then my eyes started watering and I had to take a break.

The food was great, though. I loved the communal aspect of the meal — passing the small dishes, the lettuce leaves, holding up our plates to the grillmaster, and waiting for our little gift. And it was amazing how many flavors and textures were represented — anything from the mild mayonnaise salad with apples, to the starchy, eyewateringly-hot bibimbap, to the garlicky kimchi.

After we’d paid the bill — and by the way, Korean food is expensive for Mexico City — the owner came out and introduced himself, and shook all of our hands.

I think we rolled ourselves out the door, but it was worth it. I’d go back again in a second. (As long as I haven’t eaten much that day. This is a huge meal, people.)

GO THERE
The Unnamed Korean Restaurant*
(*unnamed to us; it does have a Korean sign, if you speak the language)
Located on Oxford Street, just north of Hamburgo, next to the black building with the suits of armor out front
Avg cost per person, including drinks: $30-$40 USD
Note: To drink, they offered Mexican beers and Korean soju, a distilled beverage typically made from rice. I haven’t seen soju yet here, so this was an interesting find.

Filed Under: Restaurant reviews Tagged With: Korean food, restaurants, Zona Rosa

Exploring Mexico City’s Korean markets

August 6, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Outside Seoul Mart in the Zona Rosa, Mexico City

Ethnically, Mexico City is pretty homogeneous. Few Asians live here, compared to the United States. And it seems like there are even fewer black people.

In the last few decades, however, a Korean neighborhood has popped up in the Zona Rosa, an area known mostly for its gay clubs and sex shops. Korean restaurants, pastry shops and markets sit in a quieter area of the ‘hood, mostly clustered around leafy, tranquil Hamburgo and Varsovia streets.

Interestingly, the Mexican mainstream media seems to have taken little notice of this until recently. In the three guidebooks I have, few, if any, Korean restaurants are recommended. None of the markets are mentioned as viable delis, although they sell ready-made items such as pickled radish, green tea ice cream and squishy, plastic-wrapped Korean desserts.

Recently, Chilango magazine recommended a walk through the Korean neighborhood as a fun way to spend the day. Since I needed Korean red chili paste for a dish I was making, I decided to hit the markets on Tuesday and see what treasures I could hunt up.

Here’s a breakdown of what I bought, after hitting three markets in about two hours:

Korean market goodies

More details below. Also, as much as I would have liked to take photos of the inside, I felt a wee bit conspicuous. Got photos of the outside instead.
…

Read More

Filed Under: Streets & Markets Tagged With: Korean food, Zona Rosa

Roasted chicken tacos in the Zona Rosa

July 27, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Gili Pollos in the Zona Rosa

On Saturday, Crayton and I were about to catch a pesero to City Market — the Mexico City gourmet market of all gourmet markets, or so they say — when we realized we were both hungry. Not super hungry. Just a little bit.

Thanking the lord that we lived in a country where one can satisfy that kind of hunger perfectly (and cheaply), I suggested we hit Gili Pollos, a roasted-chicken joint on the corner of Sevilla and Chapultepec. The name is a play on a Castilian Spanish word that, loosely translated, means “dumb ass.”

I’m a fan of clever word play. And I’ve been curious about Mexican roasted chicken lately. Unlike in the U.S., where most people buy roasted birds at the supermarket, in Mexico there’s an entire industry of rosticerias, or specialized chicken-roasting joints. Many are open-air, and the birds roast slowly on rows of spits, their skins turning a crispy, dark-golden brown.

Gili Pollas has a certain nostalgic charm, too. The workers wear paper hats, and there are black-and-white checkered floors inside. We grabbed a table underneath the awning above, which overlooked the bustling Avenida Chapultepec. The chicken tacos were 13 pesos each — kind of pricey for one taco, I thought.

“Do you want onion?” a young guy in a paper hat asked us.

“Oh yeah,” I said.

And then he set this in front of us:

A typical Gili Pollos taco

It was enough meat for two tacos, easily. And it had onion, and cabbage. Both drenched in chicken drippings. Next to the plate was a bowl of pickled jalapeños for garnish, and red salsa.

The meat had bones, so I picked off a few chunks and placed them in a tortilla. (No idea if this is the proper way Mexicans eat them or not, but who cares.) Threw in some jalapeños and salsa, and gobbled it up in few minutes. The chicken was succulent, and the skin — it was crispy and perfect, and worth the trip alone.

With happy and full stomachs, and only $2 lighter in our pocketbooks, we crossed Chapultepec and caught the pesero to Del Valle.

I highly recommend the place, if you’re ever in the neighborhood. There’s also an outpost in the Centro, at Isabel la Católica and 5 de Mayo.

Gili Pollos
Corner of Avenida Chapultepec and Salamanca, in Colonia Juarez (Zona Rosa)

Filed Under: Mexico City, Streets & Markets Tagged With: chicken, pesero, street food, tacos, Zona Rosa

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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