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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

UNAM

A trip to the Pumas/Chivas soccer game

September 28, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Riot police guard the Chivas fans at the Pumas soccer game on Sept. 27, 2009

Crayton’s co-worker Carlos is a huge Chivas fan, so on Sunday we trekked out to the Estadio Olímpico at UNAM to see Chivas play Pumas, one of their biggest rivals.

This was my second Mexican soccer game, and I gotta say, I’m becoming a fan. (As fan-ish as I can be. I tend to get very nervous during close games, and then my stomach starts flip-flopping, and then I can barely watch. So I try to stay low key about the whole thing.)

Compared to Estadio Azteca, Estadio Olímpico is on the small side, with two tiered sections of seats. But Pumas fans are notoriously rabid, and so it took us awhile to actually enter the stadium. First, an employee at our ticket gate shooed us away, saying that Chivas fans had to sit “in section 23.” When we walked to that section, we were told to go to another. At the third gate, the employee there told us we should go back to the first one we went to, where the girl had shooed us away.

We finally found seats — with the help of a high-up stadium employee with a walkie talkie — just after the game started. The seats were okay. They lay directly behind Pumas’ goal during the first quarter, meaning we didn’t have an aerial view of the field. But we were immersed in red-and-white, which was fun.

The guy behind me kept whining, “No maaa-mes!” whenever Pumas approached the Chivas goal. And there were several shouts of, “Dale Chicharo!”, urging on Chivas player Javier Hernandez.

My favorite part was the trash-talking. Pumas fans would launch into their traditional “Goya” cheer, which goes like this:

Gooooya!
Gooooya!
Ca-choo Ca-choo RAH-RAH
Ca-choo Ca-choo RAH RAH
Goooya!

Chivas fans would basically pee on it, singing it back and then tacking on a “Chíngala tu madre!” on the end. You can listen to an audio link of the original Goya cheer here.

A few more pictures from the game:

Starting to realize riot police on horseback are a typical sight for a Mexican soccer game

Starting to realize riot police on horseback are a typical sight for a Mexican soccer game

Pumas haven't exactly been doing well this year, so this sign -- tacked onto a gate in front of the stadium -- basically means: "Don't worry Pumas! We won't turn our back on you!"

A sign tacked on the stadium gate, basically meaning: 'Don't worry Pumas, we won't turn our backs on you.' The Pumas haven't been doing too well this year.

Riot police guard the Chivas fans' entrance at Estadio Olímpico, during the Pumas/Chivas game on Sept. 27, 2009

A sea of red-and-white Chivas fans...

A sea of red-and-white Chivas fans...

...compared to even more Pumas fans, probably all dying to toss cupfuls of beer on our heads.

...compared to even more Pumas fans, probably all dying to toss cupfuls of beer on our heads.

A young Chivas fan at the Pumas/Chivas soccer game in Mexico City on Sept. 27, 2009

Beer sales stop just after halftime, as written on the very helpful jumbo-tron.

Beer sales stop just after halftime, as written on the very helpful jumbo-tron.

This Chivas fan led the trash-talking Goya cheer.

This Chivas fan led the trash-talking Goya cheer.

GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLL! (Chivas ties the score, 1-1.)

GOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLLLL! (Chivas ties the score, 1-1.)

After the game we went to El Charco de Las Ranas for tacos. Of course, afterward I also had to try a gaznate from the vendor out front. It’s a typical Mexican street-food dessert, comprising a tube of fried dough filled with a creamy meringue mixture. Been eyeing them for weeks, wondering how they were… but I didn’t like it. Too sweet and heavy. Oh well.

A close-up of the juicy tacos al pastor at El Charco de Las Ranas

A close-up of the juicy tacos al pastor at El Charco de Las Ranas

The gaznate, which despite its good looks, I won't be trying again.

The gaznate, which despite its good looks, I won't be trying again.

Filed Under: Mexico City Tagged With: desserts, soccer, street food, tacos, UNAM

A day trip to UNAM and Café Azul y Oro

June 17, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

UNAM Central Library

Last week, in the spirit of Exploring Mexico Now That I Don’t Have a Full-Time Job, Alice and I took a trip to Ciudad Universitaria to see UNAM, the National Autonomous University of Mexico.

It’s considered among the largest universities in the Americas, with nearly 200,000 undergrad and grad students enrolled this past school year. Can you imagine? The place is huge.

They’ve also got a lot of really cool murals, and a new contemporary art museum called MUAC. (Which we reached by cab, because we couldn’t figure out how to take the free university shuttle.) It ended up being a neat day trip, though. We saw the famous Central Library mural created by Juan O’Gorman (pic above), and we wandered around and saw kids playing ping-pong and studying outside on bean bag chairs. We stopped at a cafeteria for a snack — a muy rico panela and avocado sandwich — and then hit MUAC, which ended up being this giant, peaceful breath of glass and steel.

We ate our real lunch at Café Azul y Oro, which I’ve been dying to go to. All the local magazines have hailed it as high-quality Mexican cuisine for a fraction of what you’d pay elsewhere. I loved that the place was casual (paper napkins; no AC), and the menu creative — my prehispanic corn-gelatin dessert was officially the highlight of the afternoon — but I’m not sure I’d make a special trip, especially considering it takes me an hour to get down there.

Definitely will eat there again next time I hit UNAM, though. Then hopefully then we can see the murals we missed, and the rogue auditorium that’s been taken over by students.

Lots of photos of UNAM, MUAC and Azul y Oro after the jump.
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Filed Under: Restaurant reviews Tagged With: desserts, flor de jamaica, mole, restaurants, UNAM

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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