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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

subway

New York luxuries

January 31, 2013 by Lesley Tellez

I’ve forgotten how easy it is to live in the United States. In the past 11 days, I have:

— Thrown the toilet paper in the camode, not the trash can
— Received emailed instead of paper receipts
— Ordered takeout Indian and Thai takeout online with my credit card
— Turned on the hot water and received actual (scalding) hot water in two seconds, instead of waiting and letting the tap run for two, three or four minutes.
— Purchased a cell phone plan in 30 minutes, from the man who greeted us when we entered the store (instead of a surly employee at a window)
— Ridden in climate-controlled subway cars with passengers who follow rules, such as not blaring music, not eating, and not smoking
— Experienced the glory of buying multiple things in one store, including paring knives, coffee filters and earphones.

On the second day we were in town, Crayton and I pretty much got our new lives together. We bought new winter coats, went grocery shopping, got flu shots, bought new gloves, investigated two cell phone plans and purchased one. At the end of the day, we realized all of this would’ve taken at least two days — at least — in Mexico City.

So far my only mishaps have been not walking fast enough (New York pedestrians are like chilangos behind the wheel of a car), and taking the wrong subway train, or walking west when I should’ve been walking east.

And not to jinx it, but… I think we may have found an apartment. In Queens. Signing the lease tomorrow. I did a Google maps search for “restaurants” (another New York luxury) near our new place, and was shocked at all the excellent Thai and Chinese options that popped up. We’re going to have a fabulous time.

Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: culture shock, New York City, subway

Mexico City’s bustling subway economy

July 21, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

A subway merchant hawks CDs // photo by El Universal

Back when Crayton and I rode the subway all the time — we’ve ridden less since moving into our apartment — we wondered about the merchants in the subway cars. There’s always one on board, trying to sell you Kleenex, pens, DVDs. But how was it that no two vendors ever sold in the same car, at the same time? And how could a merchant know that the guy before him wasn’t just selling his exact same product?

Turns out reporters at El Universal were wondering this, too, and they wrote a long, fascinating piece on the subway merchants in Sunday’s paper. The tone seemed a little classist at times, almost making the vendors sound like human oddities. (One passage described in detail what clothes the merchants wear, with the lead-in, “It’s easy to identify them…”) But overall I was pretty amazed at what the reporters found out: These guys have their own loose unions, and they charge pricey fees to join. To sell on Línea 2, for instance, it’ll set you back 4,000 pesos, or the equivalent of $300 dollars.

And the vendors are fiercely protective of their turf. If an outsider tries to squeeze his way in, dudes will start whistling — they have their own secret whistling codes — and alert the subway police, who will then impose a fine. (Selling isn’t technically a crime; more like an administrative misdemeanor.)

Isn’t that crazy?

A few other highlights from the story:

*Subway vendors make, on average, between 250 and 300 pesos a day. (This is between $15 and $23 USD.)

*Among the unwritten vendor laws: They’re not allowed to sell while drunk, or blast their music on the subway platform

*On Línea 2, the vagoneros, as the merchants are called, used their positions in a recent political campaign, drumming up support for Iztapalapa candidate Clara Brugada.

Basically, the vendors are stuck in a weird kind of limbo, because they’re not technically sanctioned or regulated by the city. And for riders it’s not entirely the best situation either. If a vendor is blasting loud music directly into your ears — who among us has had that happen? — the Metro police can fine the guy, but that won’t necessarily make him turn it down.

Interestingly, the vendors say they have every right to be there, because they’re earning a living. From the story:

“The Metro police are supposedly there to take out robbers, assaulters and marijuana addicts,” said one man, who has sold sweets for six years in the subway cars. “But with us they want to take away our work. Imagine the day in which there aren’t any vagoneros. What are people going to eat?”

Filed Under: Mexico City Tagged With: subway

Tips on riding the metro in Mexico City

February 8, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Mexico City metro sign

I’ve taken the metro a lot in the past few days, while conducting what I’m now calling The House Search of All House Searches.

(I am so exhausted right now, Crayton isn’t even laughing at my jokes. Is it wrong to try and come up with a joke with the words “guten tag”?)

Anyway, even though the metro is generally hot and crowded, you can’t beat the two-peso (roughly 14-cent) price. There are a few weird things I’ve noticed though…
…

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Filed Under: Expat Life, Mexico City Tagged With: cultural confusion, subway

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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