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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Poetry

What I love about Mexico City’s Centro Histórico

July 20, 2011 by Lesley Tellez

The tiny patios, thick with honeysuckle and geraniums that hang from the railings, the clothes on the line, innocuous ghosts the wind sets flying between the green interjections of the parrot with a sulfurous eye, and suddenly, a slender stream of light; a canary singing;

the azure of the lunch-shops and the solferino of the cantinas, the smell of sawdust on the brick floor, the mirrored bar, ambiguous altar where genies with insidious powers sleep captive in the multicolored bottles;

…

the fair and its stalls of frying foods where, amidst the coals and aromatic smoke, the hierophants with cinnamon eyes celebrate the marriage of substances and the transformation of smells and flavors while they slice up meat, sprinkle salt and snowflakes of cheese over bright-green nopals, shred lettuce, bearer of tranquil sleep, grind the solar corn, and consecrate bunches of iridescent chilies;

the fruits and the sweets, gilded mountains of mandarins and sloes, the golden bananas, blood-colored prickly pears, ocher hills of walnuts and peanuts, volcanoes of sugar, towers of amaranth seed cakes, transparent pyramids of biznagas, nougats, the tiny orography of earthly sweetness, the fortress of sugarcane, the white jicamas huddled together in tunics the color of earth, the limes and the lemons: the sudden freshness of the laughter of women bathing in a green river…

— Excerpted from “1930: Scenic Views” by Octavio Paz, originally printed in The Collected Poems of Octavio Paz: 1957-1987, translated by Eliot Weinberger.

Filed Under: Mexico City Tagged With: Centro Historico, Poetry

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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