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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

High altitude baking

Experimenting, and kind of failing, at no-knead bread

August 12, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

A slice of no-knead bread

You may already know this, but you can actually make bread without kneading it. It is a big, gloppy mess, but still — you don’t have to stick your fingers in there, or do any work.

People love this idea. There’s actually a cult of no-knead bakers out there, inspired by a New York Times article that hit the Internet in 2006 that called for making a bread dough, and leaving it untouched for 20 hours. If you google “no-knead bread,” you’ll find videos about how easy it is. Blog posts. Even one set of photos where the bread’s made by a 4-year-old boy. (Who is extremely adorable.)

I never really got into the idea — not kneading takes all the fun out of baking bread, for me — but recently, after Crayton and I made grilled cheeses with the hangover potato bread, I started thinking. What would be the perfect grilled cheese bread?

No-knead bread is a crispy, almost artisan-style loaf, because it’s baked in a pot. So, envisioning gooey cheese stuffed between two dark-brown bookends, I called my friend Julie, owner of a large, 6-quart Le Creuset dutch oven. “Do you know about no-knead bread?” I asked her. “Huh?” she said. She’d never baked bread before, but being a curious, cool woman, she was in in a heartbeat.

Later I realized that 20-hour bread is probably not the best choice for two girls with busy schedules. We let the bread rise overnight, and in the morning, we plopped it into the pot and let it rise again, while we took a quick trip to Costco. Costco segued into Chedraui, and a quick trip turned into a three-hour tour.

I fretted a little over the bread — what if it had risen too much? What if it had fallen back on itself, and we’d have a dense rock of a loaf? — but I had no control over it, so I tried to put it out of my mind.

When we got home, the bread looked bigger, but not necessarily taller. It had swelled across the pan, like I imagine my hips will do by the time I’m 45.

We’d wrapped the bread in a floured kitchen towel, and planned to turn it out into the pot and bake it, like the recipe said. However, when we tried to unwrap it, the top portion of the dough clung to the towel. I hadn’t used enough flour.

Finally we got the bread in the oven, and about an hour later, we had a nice, dark-golden crust. But the loaf hadn’t risen much. It looked like a lumpy chair cushion, maybe twice the thickness of your average focaccia. As for the taste — not bad. Lots of air bubbles. Chewy crumb. Crisp crust. If only it was thicker, it’d make a hell of a grilled cheese.

There were lots of things that could have gone wrong here — I’d left our window open overnight, accidently, during the first rising in the oven, which could have made the house too cool; we’d been at Costco for hours and the bread could have risen too much; the whole floured kitchen-towel debacle, which killed about 1/4 cup of our bread dough.

I have learned, however, that I’m sticking to the kneading in the future. Why spend two days making bread, when you can do it in three or four hours?

My grilled-cheese bread quest isn’t over.

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: bread, grilled cheese, High altitude baking, no-knead

Hangover potato bread

August 4, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Potato bread

There was a big outdoor concert on Reforma on Sunday night, and in the midst of a string of lesser-known Spanish-language pop bands, I got bored and felt like going for a beer. Three micheladas and two glasses of wine later, I was feeling gooood. The next morning, though — revenge. Dry mouth. Headache.

I’d forgotten to eat anything on my beverage spree.

I ate some dry cereal and grumbled to myself about how I was too old for this crap. In my brain fog, I downloaded Confessions of a Shopaholic. (Note to everyone else: BAD IDEA.) Then I saw a bowl of potatoes sitting on the counter.

Wait.

Potato bread. That could make my hangover better.

It was warm, hearty. My stomach could handle a yeasty slice soaked in butter. Hell, maybe I’d even have it for lunch, since I certainly wouldn’t be eating the last serving of Alice’s homemade kung pao chicken. (She’d brought some over on Saturday.) Okay, it was settled. I’d make potato bread. But first, to get myself in kneading shape, I would need a sugar injection in the form of Diet Coke. Thank you, past Lesley, for buying a Diet Coke at Oxxo on Saturday.

Feeling unfit to google any recipes, I grabbed Joy of Cooking from its handy spot on top of our Spanish-language dictionary and flipped to the potato bread recipe. I microwaved and riced a potato, made my dough, and kneaded it until sweat beads formed at my temples. Unsure of exactly how fast it would rise because of the high altitude, I watched the dough carefully as it rose and then rose again.

By 2 p.m., I had a warm, golden-brown loaf resting on a wire rack. But by then I wasn’t hungry anymore. I’d also decided to whip up a bowl of jook for lunch. Yes. When other people are hungover, they sit in their pajamas all day. I make potato bread and Chinese rice porridge. I think I have Energizer Bunnies in my intestines.

When I finally did cut off a slice — while watching the dreadfully shallow Confessions movie (Isla Fisher, why have you abandoned me?) — the bread almost fulfilled my dreams. It needed more potato flavor, but the texture was just about perfect. Soft and chewy. Just the type of pillow you’d want to rest your hangover-pounding head on.

Recipes below, in case your head is ever in a vise, too. The jook is amazingly easy. A thickened, creamy rice porridge seems especially fit for overcast days like today.
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Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: bread, High altitude baking

An American hamburger in Mexico

July 27, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Our homemade, American-style burger

Ever since our new grill finally started working — did I tell you? Our grill WORKS! — we’ve been testing it out, with dumb grins on our faces. Last week we grilled pork ribs and mango slices. Yesterday we invited friends over and decided to make hamburgers. Thick ones. With (hold your breath)… homemade hamburger buns.

In my cooking control-freak mind, we could not attempt the perfect burger (that’s what our new grill was meant for, right?) without having the perfect bun. And so my body woke itself up on Sunday at 7 a.m., because even though I’d gone to bed at midnight the night before, and drank several glasses of wine that day, and therefore needed more sleep dammit — well, my internal clock was set to buns. Sprinkled on top with sesame seeds.

Yesterday morning, with light barely coming through the window, I whisked and kneaded and slapped the dough. I used a dough scraper to create eight little mounds, and then arranged them on a baking sheet. By 9:45 a.m., just in time for me to take a cab to Condesa to eat carnitas breakfast tacos (yes, this is the life I lead), the rolls had just come out of the oven. I cut one in half and tasted it just before walking out the door. Fabulous.

Crayton was in charge of the meat. He bought some ground beef at the tianguis, and used The New York Times’ recent burger recipe. It’s pretty simple: form the burgers into four-by-one inch rounds, refrigerate them, season them, then plop them on the grill. We’d bought a block of extra sharp cheddar at City Market, so when the burgers were just about ready, we covered ’em in cheese. And toasted those buns.

A few slathers of lime-flavored mayonnaise later, and some sliced beefsteak tomato and a few sheathes of iceberg lettuce, and we had a big ol’, very American burger. (Slightly lopsided, but that’s okay. We’re novices.)

We served the burgers with cold chayote salad in a roasted garlic vinaigrette, and spicy sweet potato fries. Dessert was leftover peach ice cream and tuna roja ice, which was just about the prettiest color nieve I’ve ever seen:

Red tuna-fruit ice... isn't it brilliant?

Recipes below, if you want to attempt at home. I’m calling it “An American Cookout in Mexico.” And I’m already thinking of how to make the burgers better. Next time we’re doing homemade mayo, y’all. Oooh, or maybe a choice of homemade mayos. Chipotle mayo. Chile morita mayo. Cilantro mayo…
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Filed Under: Expat Life, Recipes Tagged With: cheese, High altitude baking

Wrist pain and the joys of high-altitude baking

May 5, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

cinnamon buns

I’ve been dying to make cinnamon rolls for months, since before I even moved to Mexico. They’re kind of tedious, but when the recipe works — when the bread is light and chewy, and the buttery-sweet crumbles dissolve on your tongue — it’s as if the skies had opened up and chubby, fat-footed angels had started singing. God. I still remember the cinnamon rolls I made in seventh grade. The way the smell filled the house…

(Shaking herself out of her cinnamony reverie) Ok. Well. Anyway.

I’ve been drooling over Smiten Kitchen’s cinnamon roll recipe, so I decided to give it a go today. Everything was fine until I started kneading.

There my cute little ball of dough was, waiting for me to whip it into shape. But when I pressed my palms into the dough, but it wouldn’t give. The thing was as hard as a rock. I stopped and stared at it. WTF? Who does this dough think it is? I pushed harder, sweat droplets forming on my temples. The dough gave slightly. I think it smirked at me.

I wiped my hands and rushed to my computer, googling “tough dough to knead hard as a rock,” but mostly what came up was people complaining about kneading. That wasn’t me. I loved kneading. Usually.

Finally, after maybe 10 more minutes of searching (my dough resting, the little wimp), I realized that — even though I’d followed the recipe exactly — I’d added too much flour. High altitudes sometimes call for less flour when baking bread. Muffins, however, usually don’t need adjustments. (Which explains why my mamey muffins were fine.) It’s weird though, because I’ve also read the exact opposite — that high altitudes call for more flour in baking bread.

Really, what it comes down to is trial and error. And so, armed with my new knowledge, I placed the dough back in the mixer bowl, doused it with 1/4 cup of water and proceeded to mash the thing to smithereens. (Trying not to yell, “Ya like that dough?”) Soon its little doughy fibers unlocked, and the water seeped in, and it twirled around the mixer paddle and eventually formed a ball.

Minutes later, I placed the dough ball on the floured countertop and proceeded to knead. Ahhh yes. This was good. Much better. Oh so much better. It was softer. Lighter. Not a dough brick that made my wrists hurt.

And when I lifted up the kitchen towel after the first rise: Oh man. This looked awesome. It felt like silk. Like a smooth, elastic piece of silk waiting to be smudged with butter and sugar.

So. The rolls are on their second rise now. About half of them aren’t rising very well, so I don’t know what’s up. But I’m not panicking. I already know I’ve won.

Filed Under: Uncategorized Tagged With: desserts, Food and Cooking, High altitude baking

A dream realized: Whole wheat mamey muffins

April 20, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Mamey muffins

As you know, I’ve been adoring mamey lately. I bought another one on Friday at Mercado San Juan (more on that trip later), and I thought: I HAVE to bake something with this. It’s crying out to be more than a breakfast fruit.

Bread seemed like too much work. Pancakes, eh, not feeling them lately. But muffins. Muffins I could do. Muffins barely required any mixing. And my muffin pan was getting a little muffin top-ish around the middle. It needed a workout.

Since mamey tastes faintly of sweet potato (to me anyway), I trolled the Internet for a sweet potato muffin recipe. And bingo. The Wednesday Chef delivered.

Last night around 9 p.m. the sweet, warm scent of baking mamey muffins filled the apartment. I seriously wanted to bottle it and somehow post it on the Internet, just so you could all know. Hopefully scent technology is not too far away.

When they were done, I carefully extracted one from the pan, burned my fingers, split the muffin open and smeared it with butter. LORD. They were moist. Hot. Gently spicy, with just a whisper of ginger. My brain did backflips. This is how good they were. (Also, another sign, when I tasted the batter earlier — because you know, you gotta do that — I wanted to ravish the whole bowl.)

Recipe after the jump.
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Filed Under: Recipes Tagged With: Baking, High altitude baking, mamey, Vegetarian

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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