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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Reflections

The ever-evolving Latina identity, and meeting other paisanos in New York

October 8, 2010 by Lesley Tellez


*Photo by artist Dulce Pinzon, taken from her new Superheroes series, which depicts Mexican immigrants in superhero costumes. Check out more on her website.

I’m staying in New York City with family for the next few weeks, and yesterday the building’s doorman stopped me as I was walking out. He was a young guy, maybe late twenties.

He introduced himself as Napoleón and asked for my name. I told him. He said, in English, “Are you of… Hispanic heritage?”

I said yes.

“From where?”

“Mexico. I’m Mexican-American.”

His eyes lit up.

“Me too!”

My eyes lit up.

I wasn’t always so happy to meet other Latinos on the East Coast. In Boston, when I was in college, people would occasionally come up to me and make small talk in Spanish. They’d ask where I was from, where my parents were from, where I was born.

These exchanges usually made me uncomfortable, because they highlighted how much of a fake I was. I couldn’t speak Spanish and didn’t know where my family was from in Mexico. Plus, dude — my parents and grandparents were born in California. Did great-grandparents being born in Mexico (and only half of them, the other side is from New Mexico) even count for anything?

Of course, now I know that it does, and living 1 1/2 years in Mexico makes a world of difference. Excited at meeting another Mexican in the Village in New York City, I smiled and spoke to Napoleón in Spanish.

“De dónde eres?”

“Soy de Puebla.”

“A poco!” I said, secretly proud of myself for using slang. (A slang phrase that, incidentally, I first heard from a Oaxacan man in Seattle.) “Vivo en México!”

“En serio? El DF?”

We chatted and he told me that he was born in New York, but he visits Puebla once a year. I told him I moved to Mexico City almost two years ago from Texas. I left feeling like I’d made a new friend, even though we only spoke for maybe five minutes.

The past three or four times I’ve visited the States, it’s been me who’s been in Napoleón’s position, seeking out other paisanos and asking where they’re from. I purposely eat at American Mexican restaurants (the ones that purport to be authentic) and shop at Mexican markets, because I can speak Spanish with other people and find familiar food products.

Yesterday I walked by a few guys who looked like Mexican immigrants and my eyes lingered for a few seconds, just because they just looked so normal, like people I’d find in my neighborhood in Roma. I know it sounds ridiculous, but part of me really wanted one of them to glance over and make eye contact with me, so they would know that hey, they’ve got another paisana in the Village. They ignored me.

Napoleón called me “Chicanita” upon learning that I was born in L.A., which was funny, because I haven’t heard the diminutive version of Chicana before. (And I still feel kind of weird describing myself that way, for the same Chicana Falsa reasons I stated above.) Still, yesterday I found myself telling him, “Sí, sí,” because hell… it was true, wasn’t it?

Lately more than ever, I really do feel both Mexican and American, with the former occupying a large place in my soul. I’m happy and grateful to be a part of two cultures. And I accept the fact that my identity might someday change again. (A fact that never occurred to me in college — I thought you were who you thought you were, forever.)

As a side note, I loved hearing the Spanish pronunciation of Broadway. The “d” kind of dissolves, leaving this sexy-sounding “bro-way,” with the emphasis on the second syllable. “Vivo en la Catorce y Bro-way.”

Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: Chicano identity, NYC

Five things I learned at the IFBC conference in Seattle

September 6, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

This is what a raw geoduck looks like. Weird, no?

I know I’ve been talking a lot about the technical aspects of blogging lately. I’m going to return to Mexican food soon, I promise, but I did just want to share a few more thoughts from the International Food Blogger Conference I attended a few weeks ago.

The conference really made me think. Not just about recipes and search engine optimization and stuff like that — although that was part of it — but also about how different all of us food bloggers are, and how it’s totally, mind-blowingly crazy that we’re a huge demographic that doesn’t quite belong to any one industry. We’re just kinda making up the rules as we go along.

Here are five things that stuck with me from the conference:
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Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: blogging

Morgan Spurlock on transparency and activism in food blogging

August 28, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

Morgan Spurlock at the International Food Blogger Conference in Seattle, on Friday Aug. 27, 2010

Morgan Spurlock kicked off the opening night of the IFBC conference yesterday, chatting for about an hour about why eating locally grown food matters and how we can get folks to care.

He’s a funny guy, and he talked briefly about creating a Supersize Me sequel called Supersize Me 2: Obesity Boogaloo. (“I still may do it,” he said.) What struck me most were his thoughts on the future of food blogging.

In his opinion, food bloggers need to get away from the computer and get out into the streets. We should be educating people, working with the local media to teach people where their food comes from and how to cook it properly. Bloggers could lead field trips to local farms, he said. Or organize a visit to a local restaurant, where the chef could talk about eating sustainably.

“That’s what you all need to be focused on,” he told the crowd. “How can my words drive action?”

He briefly mentioned that food bloggers need to be a lot more transparent. He said it at the end of his talk and he didn’t have time to elaborate, but I’m assuming he meant in regard to whether we’ve received free meals or if we’ve been paid to endorse products. I heartily agree.

I admit that while I’m passionate about eating less processed food and enjoying the natural taste of a product (as opposed to something laden with corn syrup), I haven’t spent enough time in Mexico yet to understand exactly how to educate people here. Regarding transparency: The only free meal I’ve received in writing this blog was at El Bajío, as part of the Aromas y Sabores tour. The entire tour was free for all the invited journalists/photographers. But that doesn’t excuse it — I should’ve left an extra-large tip or at least mentioned in the post that the meal was free.

I’m curious about your thoughts. If you blog about food, do you see yourself taking a more activist turn? Do you think you’re being transparent enough? Do you accept free meals when you’re writing, and do you expect it?

Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: blogging

Headed to the International Food Blogger Conference

August 27, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

International Food Bloggers Conference 2010

I’ve been visiting the States for two reasons over these past two weeks. One was to watch a dear friend get married, which she did, on a hill overlooking the San Juan islands. The second reason was to attend the International Food Blogger Conference.

I’m usually skeptical about blogging conferences and classes. With the exception of BlogHer, most of them tend to be outrageously expensive and focused on, “Look at all the swag we’re getting!”

This one seemed different. It’s small and aimed at how to specifically improve the content of your food blog, through streamlined recipe writing, and better writing and photography. There’s also a seminar on SEO and blog traffic (with my friend Joy on the panel), and a keynote speech from James Oseland, the editor-in-chief of Saveur. Other panelists include Victoria von Biel, executive editor of Bon Apetit, and Molly Wizenberg of Orangette and A Homemade Life.

Of course, there is swag too, but I’m more worried about how I’m going to fit it in my packed suitcase. (I’ve got a fancy new pair of rainboots taking up a bit of space.)

The conference starts tonight, with an opening reception at the Hotel Monaco with Morgan Spurlock, best-known for directing Super Size Me. I’ll have more updates to come!

Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: blogging

The first-ever Mija Chronicles blog giveaway

August 20, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

I know I use exclamation points a lot, but this deserves one: I’m giving away some Mexican goodies!

I’ve been wanting to do this for months now, as a way to say thanks for reading. I really appreciate every single comment you guys leave — at least, the nice comments anyway — and I’m just honored that y’all take the time to spend a few minutes here.

This little tray of goodies, all of which were purchased at La Nicolasa, includes tejocote jam (so fabulous I started buying loaves of bread, just to have something to spread it on); piloncillo en polvo; a package of peach ate — perfect for slicing and serving with Mexican manchego; and a package of dried xoconostle, which is the sour tuna fruit. When it’s dried, it has a pleasant, sweet-and-tangy flavor that makes it perfect for salads, rice, trail mix, etc.

The pretty plate in the picture above isn’t included, because it’s my mom’s. (Thanks for letting me use it Mom!) Also, in the interest of complete transparency, I purchased these things with my own money — La Nicolasa didn’t give me anything for free.

To win, all you have to do is answer this question in the comments below:

What is your favorite Mexican food memory, and why?

I’ll pick one person randomly as the winner on Monday. Thanks for playing, and thank you again for reading.

Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: blogging

Grinding chocolate on the metate, the traditional Mexican way

August 6, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

Most people probably think of chocolate as being European, but the cacao bean itself — the bitter seed that gives chocolate its taste — is native to Mexico.

The Mayans were the first to domesticate the crop, thousands of years before the Spaniards arrived. (The name cacao actually comes from the Mayan word kakaw.) Later, Mexica priests and other upper-class Aztecs drank ground cacao as a beverage, mixed with water and spices. The Mexica venerated cacao so much, in fact, that they used it as a currency and imposed a cacao tax on conquered villages.

Yesterday at cooking class, Yuri told us we were going to make chocolate from scratch, in the traditional Mexican way. We’d each grind 1/4 kilo of cacao beans on our metates, drawing out the natural cocoa butter until the beans turned into a thick, glossy liquid.

In keeping with the way the nuns used to make chocolate in Mexican convents, we’d each receive a portable flame to place under our grinding stone. The flame would heat the stone and melt the cacao a bit, making it easier to grind.

I had no idea what lie ahead of me — a common theme in this cooking class — so I kneeled on my straw mat and began grinding with high spirits. The beans crackled and crunched under my metlapil.

We’d toasted the cacao beans in the last class, so pulverizing them produced this nutty, kind of toasted-walnut smell, mixed with aromas of intense dark chocolate.
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Filed Under: Reflections, Traditional Mexican Food Tagged With: chocolate, metate, Mexican cooking school, sweets

The most popular Mexican condiments, and why I love them

August 3, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

After a year-and-a-half of living and eating here, I’ve finally started to understand Mexicans’ deep, intense love affair with condiments.

For those of you who aren’t as well acquainted with how Mexicans — specifically chilangos — eat, here are a few examples:

1. People here eat pizza with Worcestershire sauce (known in Spanish as salsa inglesa) and snow cones with chamoy.

2. They eat sushi, gleefully, with gobs of cream cheese.

3. They pile tortas with layers of ingredients (do you know the torta cubana?) and mix seafood cocktails with ketchup and hot sauce.

4. Jugo Maggi, a concentrated, salty sauce, is ever-present at restaurants, to sprinkle on soup or meat or pasta. The vinegary, hot Salsa Valentina is often served too, to drench on saltine crackers, potato chips, peanuts and fruit.

Basically, a dish is not appetizing here unless it is salty, spicy, creamy, meaty and acidic all at once.

I used to turn my nose down at the whole 12-tastes-at-once flavor profile. But recently — maybe it’s taking my cooking classes or starting Eat Mexico — I’ve become much more appreciative of how peculiar and Mexican this is.

The torta, for me, has become a thing of wonder: a single sandwich, the base of which is avocado, tomato, beans and mayonnaise. (That’s the base!) The bread is scooped out to make room for the fillings, because it is not acceptable to pile less than one-inch’s worth of two types of meat, cheese, pineapple and a fried egg. (Depending on what you’re ordering.)

While cream cheese is not an authentic sushi ingredient, it is quite utilitarian in holding your Mexican sushi roll together, especially when said roll contains grilled onions and camarones al ajillo. Worcestershire sauce adds a salty umami kick to pizza. After taking a few bites, regular pizza suddenly feels… plain.

Lately I’ve taken to sprinkling Salsa Valentina on saltine crackers. It’s kind of like an appetizer and bar snack rolled into one. A year ago I would’ve never, ever done this.

I’m curious whether you find yourself adding a bunch of condiments to your food, too. What are your favorites?

Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: culture, salsa

The Zen of bug-infested tortilla dough

July 30, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

A few weeks ago, my cooking class instructor gave us our first major homework assignment. For the July 29 class, we were to bring one kilo of nixtamal, or dried corn that’s been soaked in a mixture of water and slaked lime. (Slaked lime is known in Spanish as “cal.”)

We could either soak our corn the night before class or do it Thursday morning. But the corn had to sit undisturbed for eight hours.

Luckily I already had my corn — I’d bought a kilo at the Central de Abastos about a month ago, before my cooking course even started.

I didn’t have time to make the corn Wednesday night. So at 9 a.m. yesterday, I padded into the kitchen, bleary-eyed, in my pajamas. I took out my corn from the pantry and poured it into a bowl.

I tweeted that I was about to make nixtamal. And of course I took a few photos.

Innocent-looking corn, before things turned ugly


The recipe I used, jotted down in class

I rinsed the corn under the faucet and shuffled the kernels with my fingers. And that’s when I spotted them: tiny black bugs, about the size of bread crumbs. My stomach dropped. There were bugs in my corn.
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Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: Mexican cooking school, nixtamal, tortillas

Indulging in the “sobremesa”

July 13, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

When I first moved to Mexico, I was annoyed, frankly, by the amount of time it took people to eat here.

At a typical restaurant, the waiter would drop off the menu and disappear. He would reappear to take our drink order, and then disappear again.

It was unnerving how no one, except me, cared about this. I’d be at a restaurant frantically trying to catch the waiter’s eye (should I stand up? should I go get him?) while every other Mexican looked happily oblivious. Lounging over their post-dinner coffees like they could have stayed there all night.

In Spanish this after-dinner lingering is called the “sobremesa.” An exact equivalent doesn’t exist in English, but it basically means chatting with friends after a meal and letting the food digest.

Basically, the sobremesa means that meals in Mexico — or rather, lunch, which is the biggest meal of the day — can stretch into two hours. Or even four, if you’re hanging out with your work buddies and throwing back tequilas.

I wasn’t sure I’d ever be one of these sobremesa, hanging-out-in-a-restaurant-all-afternoon types of persons. Patience is not one of my virtues, and after a meal I like to go home. But I’m happy to report that the change is underway.

Consider the evidence:

1. When I was in New York recently, I felt ambushed when the waiter appeared to take our order, five minutes after we sat down. Were we supposed to be reading our menus this whole time? Didn’t everyone else just want to have drinks and sit for awhile? It turned out, no. All the Americans were ready to order except me. I asked everyone nicely if we could please order appetizers first, and then decide later on our main plates.

2. We had lunch with Erik and Jesica recently, and the four of us hadn’t hung out in awhile. We met up at 2 p.m. at Barracuda Diner. At 3:30, we were still talking… at 4 p.m., still talking… and finally at 4:30, Crayton and I had to leave to pick up our friend at the airport. But I could have stayed longer. It was fantastic, this sitting after a meal without a care in the world except the company we were with. Two hours had ticked by, and I hadn’t once fretted about some task that had to be done at home.

3. I now love when the waiter drops off the drink menu and disappears. I think it’s classy.

What about you? Do you like lingering after a meal?

Filed Under: Expat Life, Reflections Tagged With: culture, dining

Another big announcement

July 5, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

Thanks so much for all of your wonderful comments and encouragement about cooking school. I wanted to share some other big news with you today: I’ve started a new business!

My friend Jesica and I recently launched Eat Mexico, a tourism company that offers informal, fun food tours of Mexico City.

Right now we’re offering a four-hour street food tour, a three-hour taco tour and tours of two Mexico City markets. Everything is completely customizable, so if you want to seek out the city’s best bakeries or the best vegetarian places, or you really just want to eat grasshoppers and ant eggs, we can do that, too.

The whole idea is to show people realize how vibrant and layered the food scene is here. Real Mexican food — and not just the food, but the history and the culture of eating here — deserves so much more recognition. I am really excited to be doing my part to help get the word out.

Please check out our website and let me know what you think. If you live in Mexico City, we will be having a launch party sometime in the next few weeks, so leave me a comment if you’d be interested in attending.

So yes: cooking school and culinary tourism. This is the summer of Making It Happen.

Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: Eat Mexico

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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