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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Reflections

Lookin’ pretty in a foreign country

June 24, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Because I’m girlie and fairly princessy, and maybe just a teensy bit vain, I worried a bit before I got here about whether I’d be able to access certain quality beauty services. Specifically: a good hairstylist, an aesthetician and a fungus-free place to get pedicures.

Thankfully, I’ve found an aesthetician whom I adore. (Whew! So totally key when you’re living in a country with fabulous beaches, and you desire to visit places like Brazil.) I found a place to get pedicures, where the staff serves hot tea while they scrub your feet. And today, I think — and I hope I’m not jinxing myself — I finally found a place to get my haircut.

It’s kind of hilarious, actually. The shop is called “Robin by Enrique Bricker” and it’s one of those super trendy places where the staff is young, pierced, tattooed, wearing MC Hammer pants with a Hello Kitty tank top, etc. They don’t take appointments. Instead you show up whenever and wait in line. On weekends, the line stretches outside the store. But during the week, if you don’t have a job and you’re really supposed to be writing freelance stories but are instead procrastinating, you can show up and there’s usually no one there.

So I went today. It was technically my second visit. On my first visit, the stylist gave me horrible spiky bangs, but I’d only paid 200 pesos and I was happy with the rest of the haircut. It was worth another roll of the dice.

This time, I gave my name to the Hammer-Panted Hello Kitty receptionist and she referred me to a woman named Aline. Aline was stick-thin, wore ankle boots, leggings and a baby-doll top. She also had very straight, thick bangs. We chit-chatted a bit about the style I wanted and she asked me where I was from. I told her I’d moved here with my husband. She said, “You’re married? You look so young.” The phrase she used was “bien chava.”

From that point on, I loved Aline.

She listened to my thoughts about my bangs, and snipped quickly, taking off entire sheaths of my hair with just a few flicks of the scissors. She didn’t exactly cut the length — more like she sucked out the volume. I loved this. (The spiky-bangs lady did it too, by the way.) My whole life, hairstylists have wailed at me, “You have so much hair!” But in Mexico, they just snip y ya. They know how to tame thick hair. Best of all, I now have hair that I can wrap four times — not two! — with a ponytail holder.

Anyway, Aline finished cutting and got out the flat iron. She pressed, and steamed. Fifteen minutes later I had a sleek cap of layered hair that I didn’t recognize. I looked…. Mexican. Like your average bien-chava girl walking down the street.

“I feel like I should be going to a club,” I told her.

She laughed. “Go! Take advantage of it!”

So here I am at home with my soft, thin hair. Not going to a club tonight, but I may go grab a drink at the Mexpat. If you don’t recognize me, I’ll understand.

Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: Chicana identity

One of Mexico’s “hottest girls” is only 14

June 23, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Quien magazine

Just when I was getting semi-used to how differently women are viewed here — they’re valued more for being mothers than workers, and chastity is prized even as many professional women here walk around in miniskirts, tacones and cleavage-bearing shirts — Quien magazine, a fluffy but respected publication in town (billionaire Carlos Slim was on a recent cover) has gone and put a 14-year-old telenovela star Danna Paola on its cover, announcing her at the top of its list of “beautiful girls.”

All the other women featured in the story are in their 20s.

As you can see above, Paola is wearing a bikini and a sexy expression, which is creepy and disturbing. Even worse is the video the accompanies the story, which has leering camera angles and moaning-ecstasy sound effects.

Executives at Televisa, which sponsors Paola’s show, Atrevete a Soñar, are reportedly scandalized by the magazine cover and are thinking about canceling her contract, El Universal says. Other websites are reporting that Televisa is demanding that Quien magazine turn over the photos. Also: Where were the girl’s parents?

Quien, for its own part, is portraying the uproar as a bunch of rumors, and Televisa as an overbearing company that’s squashing the success of a up-and-coming star. Paola felt very comfortable during the shoot, a story posted today on Quien’s website says.

I don’t pretend to know how hard it is to be a parent, let alone a showbiz parent, but what ever happened to the idea of teenage girls simply being teenage girls, and not sexualized creatures? In the U.S., a lot of the hot teen starlets right now are admired for their sweetness and innocence. (Unlike the Lohan era of five years ago.) Demi Lovato and Selena Gomez, for example, have never been photographed stumbling out of a club or flashing their underwear at the paparazzi, and Selena was just on the cover of Teen Vogue. Not that I’m advocating for them to have perfect lives, but it’s refreshing to see them acting their age. Can you imagine the uproar if either one of them appeared in bathing suits and sexy expressions on the cover of a U.S. magazine?

I’m getting more worked up about this as I write, so maybe I should just stop here and go take some deep breaths.

Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: feminism, telenovelas

The sad (and embarassing) state of The News

June 18, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

The News screen grabA few weeks ago word hit that The News, Mexico City’s longstanding English-language daily, had been bought by Grupo Mac, a company that publishes two Mexican newspapers. It was an ugly day: None of the News’ staff knew the sale was coming, and two-thirds of them were laid off in a single day. Fourteen were rehired, but most have since quit. Eight employees resigned this week, according to Mexico Reporter. Only two native English speakers remain.

I wouldn’t usually care so much about this — sadly, I’ve become kind of inured to the newspaper industry’s collapse, thanks to all the job-hemorrhaging going on in the U.S. — but the News has suffered a spectacular decline in quality. I used to enjoy their arts, city and world coverage, and the voices on their editorial page.

This, however, is a Reuters story that appeared in the paper today. A friend actually typed it out and forwarded it me because it’s so rife with translation errors, it’s almost laughable. (If you weren’t also cringing at the same time.) Remember, this used to be a good paper.

Scientists had modified genetically an odd Mexican salamander that the ancient believes of the Aztecs considerate a transformed god, in the hope of that its capacity to regenerate parts of its body someday help to people who have lost limbs by amputation.

This slimy little animal, about 15 centimeters length, crowned with some hairy gill [ed. note: WTF?], and with little eyes, as buttons, had become the best option for a lot of scientists, in spite of its capacity of regenerate its hurt extremities, jaws, skin, and parts of its brain and spine. 

The salamanders can make regrow many parts of their bodies several times in his lifetime.  -REUTERS

If you squint at the screen grab above, which I took just a few minutes ago, you’ll notice a headline mentioning how ICE agents “will boast arrest power” and the Lakers’ “unbelivable” win. Elsewhere on the site, there’s news of a possible meteor striking Nuevo Leon:

NL readies for hurricane season

The News 

NUEVO LEON – Authorities in the northern state of Nuevo Leon announced an enhanced contingency plan to fron the upcoming hurricane season in the Gulf of Mexico, which has hit the state capital Monterrey very hard before.

 Governor Jose Natividad González Parás headed the first meeting of the Hydro Meteor Contingency Committee for the 2009 tropical cyclone season.



[snip]

“We are about to finish putting together the most complete High Risk Atlas that any other state in the nation has”, González said.



He added that it is of vital importance to continue working with municipalities and the federal government to take preventive actions before a meteor strikes the area.


I’m not just seeking to make fun here. It’s really, really sad that a formerly solid paper is now like a man who’s had his arms and legs cut off, and is walking around trailing blood everywhere.

It needs to either shape up, or shut down and save itself the misery. At this point I don’t know any English speakers who would read this paper and actually enjoy it.

Filed Under: Expat Life, Reflections Tagged With: Mexican news media, newspapers

On being a kept woman

June 3, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

wedding photo

Seven months ago, I quit my job as a reporter to move to Mexico with my husband. With no job — and no plans to get one, since we didn’t need it to survive financially — I promptly felt extremely guilty.

What was I supposed to do with my time? Yeah, the writing thing, but what was I really supposed to do with my time? I wasn’t even raising kids. I was just… there. At home. Mooching off the hubby, and redecorating our living room. This didn’t seem honorable for a woman who spent eight years as a reporter, and graduated cum laude from an East Coast university.

Granted, I could get a job. But really, I didn’t want one. Or maybe I was just being lazy. Or worse, maybe if I didn’t get one, my husband would start to think I was lazy. (I told him this. He said: “Never.”)

I confided in my friends that I wasn’t sure what my identity was anymore. They told me to relax and stop worrying, and that it would all work out.

They were right, because lately I’ve discovered that I really like being a housewife. Re-reading that sentence, part of me is cringing. But it’s true. I derive joy from my housewifely duties. I’ve taken ownership of them. I’m proud of the work I do.

I plan the meals, wash the dishes, do the grocery shopping, take our clothes to the cleaners. I spend Sundays wandering aimlessly around the tianguis, a dumb grin on my face. I love serving my husband a home-cooked meal after he’s worked all day. Usually I even clear the plates. (Do you hear that mom? The girl who hated washing dishes as a child now clears the table with gusto!)

This isn’t the same joy that I got from working hard on a story, but still — it’s peacefulness. Happiness.

Maybe, after 3 1/2 years of marriage, I’m finally getting comfortable being a wife, and welcoming the fact that our roles can evolve. Of course I won’t be doing laundry and washing the dishes forever. But now, this is what works. I’m happy.

*Pic above from our wedding day in San Antonio, TX

Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: wifely musings

How Bryan Adams cured my insomnia

April 19, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

I couldn’t sleep a few nights ago. I dreamt that someone was breaking into the house, and a creaking noise — real or imagined — made me sit straight up in bed. It sounded like footsteps on our laminate floors. Slow, cautious footsteps. Footsteps of impending doom. I got out of bed and checked that our windows were locked, but then my mind was awake, chattering away about the groceries and rice pudding and cinnamon buns and I don’t know what else. I heard Crayton rustling around and thought maybe he was awake.

Me: “I can’t go back to sleep.”

He rustled some more. Then he said sleepily: “Do you want me to sing you a lullaby?”

I’d asked him the same thing a few hours earlier, as a joke, when he couldn’t sleep and went to the bathroom to read. Of course, when I woke up and didn’t see him, I immediately felt frightened. Isn’t it weird how that happens? One day I’m a strong, confident single woman, and the next day, or year, I’m a married woman in a foreign city, an expat wife terrified of robbers’ footsteps.

Now I thought he was kidding. I said yes, sing to me, and tried to go back to sleep. He exhaled soft and heavy like he does when he snoozes, and I thought he’d drifted off. Then, in a falsetto voice:

“Look into my eyes…. you will see… What you mean to me….
Take me as I am… take my life… I will give it all, I would saaac-rifice….”

I laughed and kissed him on the neck. Then, just like that, he was asleep again. A few minutes later I was out, too. Thank you, Bryan. I owe you one.

Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: wifely musings

Pupusas and rain in Olympia, Washington

April 14, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

I’m headed back to Mexico City tonight, carrying way too much stuff from the U.S. (Among my items: quinoa, coffee beans, maple syrup, strawberry-rhubarb jam, a dish drying rack, an old cookbook of my grandmother’s, a Cadbury cream egg.) Someday I’m not going to buy so much. Promise.

A few snapshots from my trip:

The Olympia pupuseria with fantastic tamales de elote

The Olympia pupuseria with fantastic tamales de elote

An item I covet from Bed Bath & Beyond. If only I could find it in Mexico for less than $50.

An item I covet from Bed Bath & Beyond. If only I could find it in Mexico for less than $50.


The view from my mom's street

The view from my mom's street

Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: pupusas

Is Mexico City turning me into a jerk?

April 7, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Tried to buy beer with my credit card at the Extra convenience store yesterday. The clerk informed me that they don’t take credit cards, and she pointed to the ATM. (As an aside: The very same chain A BLOCK AWAY takes credit cards. But whatever.)

So, I got money. I returned to pay for my beer. The clerk eyed one of my 50-peso bills.

“It’s torn,” she said. Sure enough, a tiny piece maybe half the size of my fingernail had ripped off.

“And….?” I asked.

“We can’t accept it.”

“But it came out of the ATM like that. The ATM in this store!”

“Sorry.”

“And what do I do now?”

“You have to go to the bank and they’ll change it for you.”

“What bank?”

“Any bank.”

Suddenly an old man smoking a cigarette decided to weigh in on the matter. He wore a convenience store uniform too.

“Yeah, we can’t accept that,” he said. “Just go to the bank. They’ll change it for you.”

I gave her another 50 peso bill and received my change in silence.

Walking home, I grumbled about the ludicrousness of this, the ridicularity, the lameosity. (I like to invent words when I’m mad.) Then I realized how flippant I’d been to the clerk. “And now what? What do I do now?” In the Yucatan, I’d raised my voice to a guy at our hotel who’d demanded to know where we got our free Chichen Itza passes. Maybe I’m running out of patience. Has anyone else experience this? Especially people who moved from slower-paced, polite Southern cities?

Crayton, my sweet Alabama-bred husband, suggested that maybe gruffness just goes further here. A French restaurant — an empty one — turned us away last week because we didn’t have a reservation. We’d dined at this restaurant before without a reservation. Walking away, we wondered if it would have been better to chew them out. “Yeah, reservation, right, because you’re so BUSY.”

Or maybe we just need a vacation.

Filed Under: Expat Life, Reflections Tagged With: culture shock

The Zen state of mind (or: I will no longer shed tears over Telmex and water)

April 3, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

The beach in Progreso, Yucatan

I’m back from the Yucatan and I feel calmer already. The beach and the poolside views at our hacienda hotel helped. And so did (I’m semi-embarrassed to admit) certain chapters of Eat Pray Love, which I swore I would never read (over 7 million copies are now in print!), but now I’m so glad I did, because if a formerly divorced and depressed woman can find inner peace, then dammit, so can I.

Telmex says we’re not going to have a phone line for at least 15 more days. That’s fine, if that’s what the universe wants….

We still don’t have water, but pipa truck guys arrived this morning at 6 a.m. and rang our buzzer. (We had no idea they were coming and no one else did either.) The water is supposed to come back soon. The fact that we can even afford a pipa is a blessing.

And I am living in Mexico City, which is a blessing, too. Oh, and I met a really cool cab driver yesterday afternoon who said he’s known in Tepito as “Bruce Lee’s Cousin,” because he puts the smackdown on any dudes who try to mess with him. (Tepito is known as the toughest neighborhood in the city.) I got his number and he’s taking me to the airport next week.

Your faithful Zen Princess,
Lesley

Filed Under: Expat Life, Reflections Tagged With: apartment, Telmex, Water problems

I finally thought it: “I want to go home.”

March 25, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

This morning, my arms full of dirty clothes, I opened the door to our tiny washer/dryer combo and discovered the sheets I’d placed there last night were still wet. I’d already tried to dry these sheets twice. Did this mean our dryer was broken, too? I screamed in my head, and I think it reached Mars.

The past few days have tested my patience. First we didn’t have water. Then we didn’t have hot water. Then I got a haircut from an aggressive Mexican stylist who gave me spiky bangs. Then the telephone installation guy broke Crayton’s nightstand. Then he said, Oh señorita, actually you can’t get a phone line in your building, the “network is saturated.” Then I woke up to find the wet sheets. Meanwhile three other loads waited, staring at me with their dirty eyes.

At that moment, the United States suddenly seemed like paradise. Hot water gushes from the faucets without anyone worrying where it comes from. A person can call up AT&T — or a carrier of their choice — and receive a phone line without much fuss. Few people worry about whether they’ll have water or gas tomorrow. And they don’t get scratch paper shoved in their faces during business transactions. GOD. What is it with Mexicans and scratch paper? Is it leftovers from the dearth of fliers people give out on the street? I got a Dianetics one today (headlines: “Depresion? Estres?”) and was seriously considering purchasing it.

So yeah. I thought it.

I wanna go home.

Eventually, after banishing myself to my room and playing with my new iPhone, I calmed down. I took some clothes to the cleaners and passed a quiet street that reminded me of what I like about this country. An old, osteoporotic woman walking ahead of me called “Buenos dias!” into a cafe. The man behind the counter yelled back, “Buenos dias!” His voice sounded raspy, like he’d smoked too much.

When I got home, the maintenance man in our building showed me how to light our water heater’s pilot light, and I read the instruction manual to learn how to keep the thing going. (The whole while feeling like a dumb American for not knowing a shred about water heaters.) About an hour later, our hot water had been restored.

The sheets went into the dryer a third time. At the end of their three-hour cycle, they were dry too. (I have now purchased a clothesline.)

One beer and a few Hershey kisses later, life is really not so bad. And I’m coming around to seeing the other side all this, which is that as an American, I’ve been spoiled to believe that natural resources like gas and water are in endless supply. Obviously they’re not. Readjusting my world view is part of the reason we moved down here in the first place. Just wish it was more “lazy conversations with Mexicans over coffee” rather than “wake up, surprise!, there’s no water.”

Filed Under: Expat Life, Reflections Tagged With: culture shock, Telmex, Water problems

Old lady shoes

March 8, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

In the first few weeks of living here, it became clear that my shoes were crap. They couldn’t sustain all the walking I was doing. I developed a pain in my heel, which probably came from my tight hamstrings and tension traveling down to my feet. (Where is the fetish taxista when you need him?)

I had to buy new shoes. (Phantom Crayton voice: “But you HAVE shoes!”) Actually, if I say I need shoes, Crayton believes me. And then sometimes I end up feeling really bad because occasionally I stretch the truth just a wee bit.

In this case, I really did need new shoes. (And 30 minutes with my Shiva Rea yoga DVD.)

I looked around in San Diego and annoyed everyone with my indecision. I pondered Keds, then nixed the idea because they seemed too casual for an afternoon at say, Contramar. I tried on orange Croc-esque flats and looked at my feet with such woe that Crayton said, “Those aren’t you, honey. It’s okay.”

I went to Ross — rekindling my love for the place; they have everything there! — and I almost bought a pair of Sketchers with raggedy velcro straps and a spot on the toe. In the checkout line I asked myself, “What am I doing?” I left instead with a pair of narrow, five-inch heels with a strap that ties around the ankle. If I’m going to be practical, one teensy little shot of shoe-tequila makes it go down better.

Finally, the day before we left, I found Clarks. I tried on three pairs of shoes there and liked them all. They weren’t necessarily cutting edge — or even anywhere near the edge; they were more like cowering in a corner somewhere — but they were comfortable and practical. I ended up getting all three pairs (one was an early birthday present). I wore my new pair of black slip-ons on the trip home.

They’d seemed fine and even cute in the store. But suddenly, walking around the airport and looking down at my feet, I felt old. The rounded toe called out, “I need room in the toe box!” The slight heel said “middle-aged tourist” more than “slim elongated leg.” I looked at other young girls in their heeled boots and thought of all the heeled boots and pointy toed shoes I’d known and loved.

I felt… 30.

Granted, when I got home, my feet were comfy, and I didn’t take off my shoes and throw them across the room like I sometimes do when I’m being foot-tortured.

Still, though, I dream about the moment when I get to wear those five-inchers with the ankle strap. There will be pain and maybe some cursing. At the end of the night, Crayton may give me the “What were you thinking?” look and heaving sigh. But at least I’ll feel sexy and young again.

Filed Under: Reflections

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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