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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Expat Life

The jóven phenomenon

May 14, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

I noticed shortly after I moved here that Mexicans yell “jóven!” when they want a waiter’s attention. The word means “young person.” But people do it even if the waiter is 90 years old.

I watched a Mexican friend do it a few times and thought something was lost in translation. So I asked her to clarify: “Um — do you really call people jóven if they’re older than you are?” She nodded at me, like, DUH.

Since then I’ve noticed people use it in the grocery store — “Jóven, will you help me reach this carton of milk on the top shelf?” — and at department stores. “Jóven, where are the women’s shoes?”

I never used it because it just felt weird. Why would I call someone older than me “young person”? That seems derogatory.

Yesterday, we went to the cantina around the corner from our house, because it was thunderstorming and we didn’t want to walk too far. I wanted a beer. But I couldn’t catch any of the waiters’ eyes. One was watching the soccer game. Another stood behind the bar, staring off into the middle distance. This is normal, by the way. It’s always hard to catch a waiter’s eye here — they’re either walking too fast, or staring straight ahead, or… watching the soccer game.

I fidgeted a bit. Should I or shouldn’t I? Well, I have to do it with authority, if I did do it. None of this meek “jóven…?” business. It must be a strong, clear “jóven.” A jóven that says, “I am the boss.”

I took a deep breath.

“Jóven!” I yelled.

The waiter staring into the middle distance quickly looked over.

“Sí señorita?”

“Otra cerveza, por favor.”

“Sí, cómo no.”

I smiled, a big smile. Couldn’t help myself.

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: cantinas, culture

Saying goodbye like a true Chilango

May 13, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Last night, a friend invited me for beers at Covadonga, a cool little cantina in Roma. She was with a big group of friends, all of whom were Mexican.

We all chatted and had fun, and at about 1 a.m., I stood up to leave. “Well, I guess I’m headed out,” I announced.

A few people looked over and smiled, but then returned to their conversations. I thought it was weird: Aren’t they going to say goodbye? Am I really that lame of an American?

Then I remembered — announcing one’s departure is, in itself, not a proper Mexican goodbye. A friend explained to me a few months ago that Mexicans walk up to everyone in the room upon leaving, kissing each person on the cheek, giving each person a small hug. They even say goodbye to strangers they didn’t speak to all night.

I remember thinking that was charming. Mexicans are so nice. And so — Ron Burgundy’s voice echoing in my head: “When in Rome…” — I did exactly as I remembered, walking up to each person, giving them a small kiss on the cheek. My brain froze on what to say (mucho gusto? Nos vemos?), and so I just smiled and said bye and that was it.

Felt proud of myself, though, walking out to the taxi. Maybe I will get this Mexico-living thing down yet.

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: cultural confusion

La Cúspide: Way cooler than any U.S. mall

May 12, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

La Cuspide

Last weekend, Crayton and I took a 20-minute cab ride to La Cúspide, a huge mall — locally known as a “sky mall,” but that reminds me too much of the airplane catalog — in Lomas Verdes, a Mexico City suburb. We’d planned to visit Idea, an Ikea knockoff store. And we did that. But wandering around the mall afterward was much cooler.

I felt like I was in a European-themed Vegas casino. The mall had a long, wide boardwalk, where couples strolled and packs of teenage girls looked for packs of teenage boys. At the edge of the boardwalk, all of Mexico City unfurled like a picnic blanket. (See photo above.) I swear we could probably see our house from there — and they had telescopes in case you wanted to check. Fountains sprayed water delicately into the air and people sipped coffee at “sidewalk” cafes.

I kept waiting to see roaming street musicians or caricaturists, but alas, no.

Of course there was a Chili’s.

chili's at la cuspide

The place was totally surreal, actually. And it’s the second Mexico City mall I’ve been impressed by. The first was Antara in Polanco.

If you’re wondering, Lesley, why are you spending all your time at malls? It’s because I have an apartment to decorate. And uh… one time I needed shorts suitable for climbing pyramids.

Filed Under: Expat Life

Montezuma’s mosquito revenge

May 11, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

When I first moved to Mexico, I bragged to family members about how perfect the weather was here. “You can leave the windows open all night!” I’d said.

By comparison, in Dallas, you can leave the windows open for exactly one week, and then the heat gets so oppressive that you start googling “How to fry an egg on sidewalk.”

The Mexico City weather tricked me, though. Everything was breezy and fine until a few weeks ago, when suddenly I started waking up with mosquito bites.
…

Read More

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: apartment, wifely musings

The return of Pablo the doorman

May 8, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

My blog entry about the weirdness of Pablo, our portero, must have telepathically spooked him — after I wrote it, I didn’t hear from him for awhile. He didn’t buzz me. I never even saw him at his post.

Then this week arrived. A few days ago: BZZZZZ!

“Can I come in to water the plants?”
…

Read More

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: apartment, portero

Nevermind on toasting to Mexico City’s resurrection…

May 4, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Guess my “Back to Life/Back to Reality” party will have be postponed. El Universal is reporting that bars, dance halls and movie theaters will be closed indefinitely, until Mexico City reaches a sanitary-alert level of “yellow,” or medium-risk. We’re at orange, or elevated-risk, now.

Unfortunately none of the local newspapers have reported exactly what it’ll take to reach yellow. (Less deaths? An abundance of sanitary gel? The slow, mournful death of the cubrebocas?) The city did unveil this new Sanitary Alert System today, which could explain the lack of details. But someone, somewhere, could at least hook a girl up with an informational graphic. Oh well.

On the bright side, restaurants and cafeterias that serve alcoholic-free beverages can open again on Wednesday (I’m hitting El Caminero), and museums, libraries and religious centers can resume business on Thursday. Hopefully the Centro Budista is included in there, because I’ve been dying to practice yoga outside of my living room.

No one knows yet when the kids get to go back to school. Vendors in Tepito — who aren’t wearing face masks, and think this whole flu thing is a scam — have made a killing in recent days selling pirated copies of Monsters vs. Aliens.

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: swine flu

From panic to cabin fever to… enjoying the quiet

May 3, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Parque Mexico

With the shops and restaurants still closed, a friend organized a picnic today at Parque Mexico.

It was a beautiful day to be outdoors. Not too hot, breezy. We ate sandwiches and orange slices atop two sheets we’d unfolded in a shade patch. Dogs ran around leash-less. A toddler in a pink dress scrunched up her face and tried to blow bubbles. Vendors offered us empanadas, alfajores, straw tote bags, candy. (The candy guy won with his infomercial-style pitch: “I’ve got the Peanut Package, containing salted and japanese-style nuts. I’ve got the Gum Package, containing Sponge Bob gum and other known brands. I’ve got the…”) We sat around for hours and talked.

For the first time in awhile the city seemed… tranquilo. Not shut-down and panicked. Just relaxed. People enjoying their time with each other, enjoying being outdoors.

All of us never would have gotten together if it wasn’t for the flu.

And actually, I may not have gotten together with friends on Friday night either, when I was feeling so cooped up, a Condesa friend — also feeling cooped up — invited me over to her house for dinner. It was fabulous. Flor de jamaica quesadillas, wine, digestifs. A big spread on their rooftop terrace, with tiki torches burning. On Saturday we had a friend over our house and there was more beer, and more good conversation.

The restaurants and bars open on Tuesday, and I’m hoping to organize a “Back To Life/Back to Reality” party at a local bar. I’m dying for everything to open up again, but I gotta say, I’ve enjoyed the recent human-to-human contact. Maybe this is what things were like before the Internet.

(Dear God, that was not an invitation to take away the Internet. Love, Lesley.)

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: Condesa, swine flu

Fleeing the flu with a weekend in Condesa

April 30, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

About a month ago, Joy took pity on our water and Telmex situation (both of which seem so quaint now) asked if I wanted to house-sit for her this weekend. She lives in Condesa, which is pretty much the hippest neighborhood in the city.

“Wouldn’t it be fun?” she’d said. “You could go to all the Condesa bars and restaurants. And have water!”

Alas, after Influenza A(H1N1) hit — can I just call it “Ahini”? — almost all of the restaurants, and all the bars, are closed until next week. But it’s still nice to be out of my house. You can hear the birds chirp here. There’s lots of light. Half the furniture isn’t covered in plastic. (Ugh. Painting will be over soon.) And Joy’s place has some awesome Parque Mexico views:

Parque Mexico from Joy's patio

She also has adorable dog named Charlie. And an unopened bottle of tequila and a fridge stocked with beer, all of which — she assured me — are at our disposal.

Already cracked open an Indio. It’s vacay time, y’all.

P.S. Flu panic seems to be dying down. El Universal is back to putting dead car-wreck victims on its home page, or at least they did this morning. They’re also reporting that Time magazine has named Mexican drug lord El Chapo as among the most influential people in the world. That seems to have as much importance/absurdity value as flu news, at this point.

P.P.S. If you didn’t make it to last night’s bacon party, you missed out.

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: Condesa, swine flu

I will not let the swine flu win, dammit

April 29, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

As my friend Joy mentions on her blog today, it’s getting harder and harder to ignore the flu and lead a normal life. Yesterday evening, on day five of the panic, I started to get a little depressed. I couldn’t go outside. (For what? I already bought groceries. The gyms and restaurants are closed until May 6.) I didn’t want to read any more news. I sat home by myself until almost midnight, surfing the Internet in a daze — and attempting to work on a completely non-swine-flu related essay — because hubby was off covering a late-night swine flu press conference.

Meanwhile, my mom called to say, “I’m worried about you! Don’t go outside!” and my dad says, “Mija, don’t burn the candle at both ends.” And my response is, I’m not. I’m home. Again.

Today is a new day, and I’m determined to make it a good one. I’m going to the grocery store to buy milk and cereal. I’m going to finish painting, because my lovely husband taped the ceiling at 12:30 a.m. I’m going to pop in my yoga DVD because I need some Zen relaxation, and I’d like to work on my headstand. (And it’d be nice to burn off the package of Oreos and three beers I had last night with Crayton.)

In the meantime: Does anyone want to take a load of bread pudding and some homemade whipped cream off my hands?

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: swine flu

Just when I thought it was getting better…

April 28, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Mexico City supermarket

Reforma says people are making crazy runs on the supermarket. The city has closed all gyms, sport clubs, pool halls. Restaurants have been ordered to sell food to-go only. El Universal reports that three more people have died. But WHO? Were they young? Old? Did they wait a long time to go to the hospital? Were they taking medication?

It doesn’t say.

I don’t even know what to think. It’s been a roller-coaster up in here. Went to bed feeling calm, watched The Wire and forgot about the flu. Now I’m thinking, “Do we have enough canned goods?” and wondering how to not go stir-crazy after another day indoors. We don’t even own any board games.

*Photo from Reforma

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: swine flu

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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