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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Expat Life

Sunday night football snacks, Mexican style

November 24, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

The Bears game was on TV on Sunday night, meaning Crayton would spend the evening wearing his Bears jersey and glued to the screen.

I’d told him I’d watch with him, but when it came down to it, I found myself too busy. The kitchen needed cleaning. We planned to grill vegetables for dinner, so I needed to slice the eggplant and squash. How long did it take to grill eggplant, anyway? I needed to consult Google. Oh, and I needed to read up on yoga ashrams in India, since we decided last week that we’re traveling to India in January. (Which is completely insane, amazing news.)

Plus, since this was game day, we needed game-time snacks. I put on a frilly white apron — very appropriate for the game-day hostess persona I had suddenly created for myself — and unearthed a package of pre-sliced jicama from the fridge. Drizzled it with lime juice and chili powder.

Opened a package of nopal tortillas, cut them into triangles with kitchen shears and baked them. I adore nopal tortillas, made from a mix of cactus and corn, because they’re bright green and slightly healthier than regular tortillas. (Meaning: less calories and a tad more nutrients from the cactus.) You can find them at pretty much any grocery store here, and they’ve got kind of a light, vegetal taste. Unfortunately they tend to fall apart if you use them for tacos. But as psuedo-tortilla chips, they’re perfect.

While my chips baked, I made a quick, creamy tofu dip with cilantro and chipotle peppers.

Placed everything on a platter and took it into hubby, who was yelling about the defense, or a fumble, or something. He didn’t look up when I sat down. I munched on some jicama and thought: Wow, jicama with chili and lime might be the new chicken wings. It’s really that good.

“Isn’t this good?” I asked Crayton. I was still wearing my white apron.

“Yeah, it’s great,” he said. He took his eyes from the screen only to dip his chip in the dip cup.

The Bears ended up losing. I considered the day a win, though. Found and emailed an interesting ashram in India. And we had lots of jicama and dip leftover. Crayton, sweet man that he is, finished the dishes after I’d gone to bed.

Baked nopal tortilla chips with creamy cilantro tofu dip
Serves 4 to 6 as an appetizer

Note: This dip has a really strong cilantro taste, and as a cilantro-lover, I find you can’t use too much. Canned chipotle peppers in adobo freeze really well, so don’t worry about using such a small portion in this dip. If you can’t find nopal tortillas, corn work fine too. The dip can be refrigerated in an airtight container for about two days.

Ingredients

6 nopal tortillas
1 349g box silken tofu (about 12 ounces)
1/2 c. cilantro leaves, loosely packed
1 teaspoon diced chipotle pepper in adobo
1 to 2 tablespoons olive oil
Salt to taste

Preheat oven to 375F or 200C. Using kitchen shears, cut nopal tortillas in half, and then cut each half into five triangles. Place on baking sheet and cook about 5 to 10 minutes, until golden brown.

While the chips are baking, add silken tofu, cilantro leaves and chipotle pepper to food processor. With the motor running, add olive oil in a slow stream. The dip should be spoonable but not runny. Taste and see if it needs more cilantro, or more chipotle pepper. When you’re satisfied, scoop with a spatula into a serving bowl and add salt to taste. Drink with cold beer.

Filed Under: Expat Life, Recipes

Has Google somehow realized that we live in Mexico?

November 18, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Went to enter my sister-in-law’s birthday in our Google Calendar today, and “Dinner at Pancho’s” popped up as the example. We don’t know anyone named Pancho yet. But still. Eerie.

Filed Under: Expat Life, Reflections

The etiquette of begging for money

November 12, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

A Mexican fifty-centavo peso coin, worth about 1/26th of a U.S. dollar

One of the things I’ve noticed in Mexico City is the politeness people have toward the poor. Countless times I’ve heard Mexicans say “no, thank you” to beggars pleading for change.

It’s the same way with street vendors peddling their wares. The vendor may interrupt your shopping trip at the tianguis, or your conversation at a sidewalk cafe, to push the greatness of wooden salsa spoons, mesh strainers, plants, rugs. Instead of acting annoyed, it’s culturally acceptable to say no thank-you. If the vendor persists, the person being intruded upon might say, “No, thank you, very kind of you to offer.”

And the way the word thank-you sounds: It has this semi-regretful tone, as if the person with money really would love to help out, but he can’t right now, and he really appreciates the poorer person asking.

I’m so curious as to where this behavior comes from. Does it stem from Mexicans’ overwhelming value of work, and so beggars are not disregarded because they’re only trying to make a few pesos? Or are Mexicans just generally more empathetic toward the poor than Americans, because more Mexicans live in poverty, or know people who do?

In the U.S., when people asked me for change, I ignored them. Crayton and I did donate money to charities that helped the homeless. But I hardly ever looked a homeless person, or a poor person, in the eye. Here I do often. But (I shamefully admit), I only started doing it because everyone else was, too.

Any Mexicans out there care to elaborate on this? And for all the Americans, why aren’t we more polite to the poor? Should we be?

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: city life, culture shock

We still have electricity — for now

October 14, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

One of our many power strips, which will hopefully continue to work while this Luz y Fuerza mess is sorted out.

Not sure if you heard, but last weekend the Mexican government seized Luz y Fuerza del Centro, Mexico City’s power utility. The government’s reasoning: The company was inefficient and corrupt. (To quote Joan Cusack in High Fidelity: “That is shocking.”)

I’m all for Mexico ramping up its efficiency. And Luz y Fuerza workers were notoriously bad — they’d siphoned so many dollars off the public that they built themselves a $10 million basketball gym. Meanwhile, customers in their offices often had to wait hours, just to speak to a human.

Good on Calderón, for taking a stand. I just wish we knew more about what’s supposed to happen next. According to El Universal, the government has mentioned hiring some of the workers back. But what is the public supposed to do in the meantime? We no longer have an electricity company. (Does anyone else think that’s weird?) It’s gone. Dissolved.

People can still pay their light bills at the bank, but no one has explained where that money is going, or whether we’ll all be in arrears once the new agency opens. And what if you have a power outage? To whom do you complain?

Sporadic outages have popped up around the city, although no one has come out and said, “It’s because they closed Luz y Fuerza!” Yesterday, Alice’s power was shut off, and she came over to store some things in our refrigerator. She mentioned that Contramar had no power, and neither did several comida corrida places in her neighborhood. People were eating in the dark.

“The issue is that no one knows who’s turning the lights on, and who’s turning them off,” she said.

Later, I asked our neighbor Carlos: What happens if we lose power? Whom do we call? I thought that he, being Mexican, would know how to handle all this.

He smiled at me and said, “Don’t suffer if you are not suffering.”

Huh.

Never thought of it that way.

But he’s pretty much right. It seems like in Mexico, all you can do is educate yourself about what’s going on, and then hope and pray that the worst stuff doesn’t happen to you. We have no control over any of it. I have candles, windows, a man I love, friends, a gym to take showers at. I made a particularly awesome apple-granola crisp this morning. I guess those are the things that matter, and not the possibility that we could lose power.

Going to go eat my apple crisp now. And by the way, props to Gancho Blog for helping me understand this whole Luz y Fuerza mess.

Filed Under: Expat Life

A peek at Colonia Cuauhtemoc, my Mexico City neighborhood

October 7, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

The view from the roof of our Colonia Cuauhtemoc apartment building in Mexico City

Back when we started our apartment hunt, I had my mind set on living in trendy Roma or Condesa. They’re pretty much where all the American expats live. (Unless they’re trailblazers living in the Centro.)

After looking at a few Condesa apartments, we realized what our budget would buy there — a bathroom with mold splotches, or a spotless, but small, one-bedroom. In Roma, which I adored for its colonial buildings and leafy plazas, we didn’t see anything we liked in the short time frame we had.

And so we moved to Cuauhtemoc, because it was the closest to Crayton’s job. It’s a quiet, middle-class colonia bordering the Zona Rosa. Most of the cafes and restaurants cater to the business crowd, and comida corrida is abundant. After 9 p.m., the streets are pretty empty.

For the first month we lived here, I felt a pang whenever my Condesa and Roma friends talked about the cool cantinas they went to, or the cool salad spot they visited for lunch. We lived in residential, middle-classville. We did not live in the hottest neighborhood. Basically I needed to get over it.

Now, seven months after moving in, I actually really like it here. I love living a half-block from Reforma, and being able to walk to the Zona Rosa. (Which is gritty, and loud, and has cheapity-cheap beer.) We can walk to Roma Norte if we want a glass of wine. And we have a tianguis a 10-minute walk away, in Parque James Sullivan. I love my cheese dude there. We bought a jalapeño asadero from him a few weeks ago.

Me, buying cheese at my Col. Cuauhtemoc tianguis, next to Parque James Sullivan

Last week, after walking to San Rafael to see a free concert, we wandered by a neighborhood jazz joint I’d been wanting to check out, Papa Beto’s. We peeked in the windows and the place was packed — maybe here was where all the Cuauhtemoqueños were secretly hanging out.

The doors were locked, so we ended up at Las Máximas, a beer joint about a stone’s throw from the Telmex building on Parque Via. We played some futbolito and Crayton won. (By pure luck.) Then we walked home.

Have I mentioned how much I love not driving?

Here are a few more places I like visiting in my neighborhood, in case you ever find yourself passing through. (Or in case a friend of yours ever raves about Condesa, and you can say, “Umm… I heard Cuauhtemoc was kind of cool too.”)

Tacos El Caminero. Seriously, best salsas EVER. It’s at Rio Lerma 138, a block from the American Embassy.

Berretín. This is an Argentinean restaurant with great pizza and a good wine list. It’s at the corner of Rio Lerma and Rio Guadalquivir, just a few doors down from Papa Bill’s.

Comida Libenesa. Great falafel, but unfortch the guy takes foreeeever to make one sandwich. Worth it if you’re not in a hurry. At the corner of Rio Nazas and Rio Tigris.

Mezzo Mezzo. A warm little pizza joint with hip clientele, a vegetarian-skewed menu and thin-crust pizza, baked in a brick oven. Try the poblano and corn pie. Downside: They don’t serve alcohol. (Sometimes a girl wants a glass of wine with her pizza!) Rio Neva 30A, between Rio Lerma and Reforma.

Bar Gold. A cantina at the corner of Antonio Caso and Serapio Rendon in San Rafael. Great place to grab a beer, eat free popcorn, and listen to a salsa band churn out the hits.

Tandem. Sometimes open and sometimes not, but great for a pint and ambient house music. Rio Nazas 73, at the corner of Rio Tiber.

Juega el Gallo. Attentive staff, great salads and tacos, and loud and crazy on fútbol nights. My only gripe is that they close around 8 or 9 during the week. How can a place call itself a cantina, and close at 8 p.m.? Rio Rhin 75, at the corner of Rio Papaloápan.

Filed Under: Expat Life, Mexico City

Mexican plastic wrap hell

October 6, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Hummus wrapped in demonic plastic wrap. (Notice the tears, which were not my fault!)

About a month ago, while paying the visit to the chicken lady at Mercado Cuauhtemoc, I spotted a guy selling paper goods and remembered that we needed plastic wrap. Without thinking much about it, I picked out one for 20 pesos (less than two bucks) and took it home.

I have since cursed every day of this plastic wrap’s existence. This is it below.

(Yeah, Wezer Shine! I’ll “Wezer Shine” you, in the eye!)

The plastic wrap, purchased in Mexico City, that I won't be buying again.

It’s not that it’s not sticky. It’s too sticky. It clings to everything. It clings to its own cardboard tube, causing holes when I try to peel off a piece. It clings to my fingers. It clings nicely to a bowl, but that result is not worth the horror it takes to get there.

This box has no metal teeth. Did you know they even make plastic wrap boxes without metal teeth? I didn’t. This means I have to dig out a pair of scissors every time I want a piece of plastic wrap. And of course the wrap clings to the scissors, too.

When I do manage to cut off a piece — it took me awhile, but I learned the secret’s in the angle of the scissors, juxtaposed with the angle of the wrap — the plastic immediately shrinks back onto its tube. (Like a snake scurrying back into its hovel!) So if I want to cut another piece, I can’t tell where I started. There are no seams, people. NO SEAMS.

After two months of this crizzap, I decided to say basta. Last time I was in the States, I bought a tube of plastic wrap from Target. It looked really pretty. Especially when placed daintily on a table runner.

Newer, nicer plastic wrap from Target

I cannot wait to use it.

Filed Under: Expat Life

How to watch the NFL in Mexico — Crayton finally speaks!

October 5, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Editor’s note: Today we have a guest post from Crayton. While he usually prefers to remain the “silent partner” on The Mija Chronicles, he has come across some information that he thinks you may enjoy. Here it is.

The Chicago Bears! Photo snagged from Chicagobears.com

Watching the NFL in Mexico is a lot like watching it in the States. The broadcast networks, plus a couple of cable channels, air the games, so if you’re a general-interest fan you can get your fill.

The problem arises for a person like me who is a devoted fan of a particular team, in this case the mighty Chicago Bears. In the U.S., it’s impossible to see every game each week without the Sunday Ticket package, available on DirecTV. Mexico carries Sunday Ticket as well, through Sky, the country’s biggest satellite provider.

We aren’t in a position to get a satellite at the moment, so no Sky for us. (A note from Lesley: Whaaa? You mean we aren’t getting Sky?) That led me, on our first NFL Sunday in Mexico, on a desperate search for a place to watch the majestic Bears demolish the Seahawks.

A side note: If I were in most other countries besides Mexico and the U.S., I could stream the NFL games through the NFL’s own website, which offers that service in most parts of the world. Mexico is blocked since Sky offers Sunday Ticket here.

A few weekends ago, riding around town in the GPS-equipped SUV of my friend Dr. Lic. Carlitos, who likes to put Darude’s techno anthem “Sandstorm” on blast, I popped into several establishments to inquire about the availability of the Sunday Ticket.

Let’s just say it’s not a household name here. Several waiters and bartenders at cantinas and Irish pubs said they did have NFL games, but when I asked them to grab a remote control to pull up the menu for their Sky set-top box, it was apparent they didn’t have ALL the games. (Lesley: Yeeeah, cantina dude! Top that!)

A gentleman at the host’s stand at an Irish pub in the ritzy Polanco neighborhood suggested we go to Caliente, a gambling establishment about 10 minutes away, which has a sports book. Unfortunately, Caliente was not a Caesar’s-Palace-style sports book.

The Polanco location featured a quiet, well-lit room with gamblers seated at cafeteria-style tables. There was little running commentary, only the occasional cheer when someone’s team scored. A waiter brought drinks from a restaurant downstairs, but the service was spotty and unpredictable. Meh. I don’t know about you, but when I’m watching some football, I need the beers to keep on coming. (Lesley: This is true.)

For this past weekend’s game against the pitiful Lions, I wanted something better. So I did some Internet searches. A series of sort-of-handy Yahoo Answers led me to a bar you might be familiar with if you’re from the U.S.: Hooters.

Hooters has one location on the route of Mexico’s Metrobus route on Insurgentes Sur, in the Colonia San Angel.

I placed a call.

“Hi, I’m looking for a place that has all the NFL games, even those that aren’t available on cable TV. Do you have those?”

“Yes, we have NFL games.”

“But do you have ALL of them? Because some aren’t available on cable.”

“Yes, we have all of them. We even open early, at noon, so people can watch the games.”

“OK. So you have ALL of them.”

“That’s the case.”

I was suspicious. I’d been burned a few times. But we stopped by yesterday around 12:30, and true to the Hooters dude’s words, the place was blanketed with LCD screens showing every single NFL game in progress. I made my way to a barstool, suffered through the first half and then enjoyed the more lopsided Bears victory in the second period.

“But Crayton,” you may be asking, “what was it like to watch the game at Hooters in Mexico?” (Sorry, that was me, Lesley, again.)

I’ve never been to a Hooters in the U.S., so I can’t really provide a comparison. The servers wear orange shorts and pantyhose, and some glide around on roller skates. I assume this is common. All I know is that the beer was cold (if not cheap by Mexico standards) and the game was on. That makes me a loyal Hooters customer, at least here in Mexico City.

GO BEARS!

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: Crayton, NFL

Where has all the cilantro gone?

September 25, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

A nice-looking, but rather wimpy bunch of cilantro from a mercado in Col. Cuauhtemoc, Mexico City

A few days ago I went to Superama to buy a few groceries. As I made my way to the herbs, I noticed cilantro was missing among the bunches of epazote, mint and flat leaf parsley.

I wanted to groan. This store NEVER has cilantro. Or… maybe it was hiding somewhere.

I asked an employee standing nearby if they had any. He shook his head. “It hasn’t arrived,” he said.

Arrived? Arrived from where? We live in Mexico. It should take up half the space in the produce truck! I didn’t say any of that, though. Instead I told him, “You know, four out of five times that I shop here, the store has no cilantro. Isn’t that odd?”

“I guess you have bad luck,” he said.

I bought the rest of my groceries, and ended up stopping for cilantro at the mercado near my house. But I didn’t see it immediately, which caused me to get all worked up all over again. (What the eff is going on in this country?) The guy there asked me what I needed, and I said in the sweetest voice possible, “Do you have any cilantro?”

He led me down the aisle, and pulled a thin, rather wimpy bunch of cilantro out of a grocery bag. I thought about bad-mouthing Superama to him, but I didn’t.

Later that night, I deconstructed the story in detail to Crayton. He told me that since Superama is owned by Wal-Mart, there is probably a reason why our local store never has any cilantro.

“They’ve determined there isn’t a high demand for cilantro in the community,” he said, very business-reporter like.

“That’s CRAP!” I exploded. Although I didn’t say crap. Sorry mom.

I don’t know why cilantro has me all worked up, but it does. This is a basic staple in Mexican cooking. I should be able to find it on every corner. And actually, it IS on every corner, chopped finely as topping for tacos. What about the poor ama de casa who just wants to make tofu dip, dammit?

I didn’t have enough for my tofu dip, so I ended up using it in a layered tortilla casserole. Which fell apart in the oven.

Somewhere up there, the cilantro gods, in shackles and chains, are doubled over and laughing.

Filed Under: Expat Life

Why hasn’t Mexico City embraced hip-hop?

September 22, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Our view from the Goodie Mobb Reunion Show in Atlanta, on Sept. 19, 2009

Our view from the Goodie Mobb Reunion Show in Atlanta, on Sept. 19, 2009

We saw Goodie Mobb in Atlanta last week, and as we stood outside in the rain, listening to everyone around us yell out the lyrics, I wondered again why hip-hop hasn’t caught on in Mexico City.

The D.F. is a gritty place. It’s urban. There are plenty of people living in poverty, and there’s political corruption and drug violence. It’s gold-mine material for a hip-hop song, and that’s not even counting the fact that the U.S. is our closest neighbor, and you’d expect some of its mainstream hip-hop culture to seep in here.

It hasn’t. Lil’ Wayne may be blowing up U.S. urban radio, but I can’t find a single bar that plays him in Mexico City. (Or a single bar that plays any hip-hop, save for an ultra lounge in Polanco. But that doesn’t count because it’s an ultra lounge, and you have to wear heels and makeup to get in.)

Live rap shows aren’t too common here, either. A friend of mine who follows the tiny Mexico City scene says most of the hip-hop shows he knows of are in far-flung suburbs.

It’s sad, because I really miss hearing the music. I grew up in Southern California with my ear glued to the radio, listening to Tupac, Dr. Dre, DJ Quick, Lighter Shade of Brown. And then there was the R&B: Guy, Blackstreet, SWV, Xscape, R. Kelly.

Actually, I didn’t realize how much I missed R&B until we got to Atlanta last week, and I turned on the radio in our rental car and heard Johnny Gill’s “My My My” blaring. We were eating gyros in our laps, trying to make good time to Huntsville. I turned it up and sang along, my mouth stuffed with beef and lamb: “Put on your red dress… and slip on your high heels… and some of that sweet perfume…” No one could sing like Johnny.

I haven’t read a whole lot about why hip-hop isn’t big here, but I wonder if it has to do with the fact that in Mexico, there seems to be a culture of quiet acceptance when things go wrong. Politicians stealing again? Sigh, shake of the head. Yep, that’s what they always do. No water? Yeah, but that’s just the way it is. The general notion seems to be to keep your head down, and make sure your family is fed. Not strike back at The Man through politically aware lyrics.

That still doesn’t answer the question about why American hip-hop culture hasn’t seeped in more. Mexicans have embraced plenty of other aspects of American culture — fast food, sneaker boutiques, Wal-Mart.

In any case, I am not the only lonely, hip-hop depraved American here who misses her music. A few friends and I have groused about it together, and we’ve talked about renting out a bar and combining our various iPod powers. We’ll see if that ever pans out.

With that, I will leave you with one song we fell in love with in Atlanta: Soulja Boy Tell ‘Em’s “Turn My Swag On,” which upon first listen is eye-rollingly simple, but then you realize that’s what makes it so good.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Pga4ax5aus&hl=en&fs=1&]

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: hip-hop, Music

A plane hijacking, and how to live in a country less stable than your own

September 9, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

If you didn’t hear, a group of men hijacked a Aeromexico plane returning from Cancún today. They demanded to speak to President Calderón, or said they’d blow up the plane. The standoff ended peacefully maybe an hour ago, when federal police surrounded the plane and took the men into custody.

No one was harmed, thank god. UPDATE: CNN now says a 44-year-old Bolivian man was solely responsible for the hijacking, believing God was trying to send him a sign because of today’s date, 9-09-09. (Sigh.)

But upon hearing the news — Crayton told me quickly over the phone — I felt… weird. I was walking home from a wine store, and looked around for signs of panic. No one looked any different from any other day.

The dude in front of the Zona Rosa Starbucks was still playing his saxophone, with his lobotomized Strawberry Shortcake piñata set in front of him to collect change. People rushed across the street in front of oncoming cars. A man outside the Plaza Insurgentes said over and over, “Me regalas una moneda. Me regalas una moneda.” (“Give me change. Give me change.”) You know, the usual stuff.

It hit me that human beings are pretty resilient creatures. I wasn’t suddenly tense, or deeply scared about the hijacking, because everyone around me was conducting their normal, daily routine.

Then again, maybe Mexicans are just used to this. We’ve had a string of bad luck this year. Swine flu. Earthquakes. Economic recession. Police officers killed in drug violence. Screaming U.S. State Department Travel Alerts urging Americans to stay away from Chihuahua and Tijuana and Michoacán. And that’s just this year. I’m happy there hasn’t been a peso devaluation, or things would really be in the crapper.

Anyway, this is all just a long way of saying that living here is tough sometimes, in ways that I never thought it would be. I expected the language problems and cultural issues. What I didn’t anticipate was how conflicted I’d feel when things go wrong. I’ve fallen for this country, hard, and it’s a little scary to think that maybe things aren’t as organized here as I’d hoped.

In no way does that mean I want to move back to the U.S. (Sorry, mom.) In a weird way, it’s almost like all this stuff is bringing me and Mexico City closer. She was my heady, beautiful, spazzy crush when I first arrived, and now I’m seeing her realistic side. But I’m still in love. Been thinking lately about taking a beach trip to the Riviera Maya with Crayton in November, and this doesn’t change my plans.

For more details on the hijacking: Check out The New York Times’ coverage, the BBC and, in Spanish, El Universal.

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: crime

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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