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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Expat Life

The Mexican concept of time

February 15, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Before I moved here, I heard plenty of warnings about how things move at a slower pace. When people say “mañana,” they mean some fuzzy point in the distance, not tomorrow, necessarily. Things that you’d think would take five minutes — fixing the voicemail box on my Mexican cell phone, for instance — end up taking a week.

I’d like to be open-minded and live how the Romans do. (You say tomorrow? Great, I’ll be ready in three days… or four.) But it’s been a little hard to rejigger my American attitude about time, because it’s seeped into the tiniest of decisions.

Yesterday the man who made my business cards told me to meet him at his shop at 1 p.m. I showed up at 1:15 and he wasn’t there. (And his phone number was out of service.) I went and got a carrot/orange juice at a juice bar, and came back at 2, and there he was.

“Traffic was horrible,” he apologized.

Yesterday night, a friend was hosting a birthday barbecue. His invitation said 2 p.m. In the U.S., I would have showed up shortly afterward. But this is Mexico — parties run all night, right? (My one piece of evidence to support this is a Super Bowl party we attended here, which supposedly started at 1 p.m., but at which no one really arrived until 11 or so.)

So, I showed up at 11. The party had already ended.

“Comidas are different,” my friend, an American woman who has lived here for four years, explained. Comida is the word for a barbecue that starts in the mid-afternoon. “By 11 p.m. everyone’s already passed out from drinking all day.”

Now I know. Interestingly, there do seem to be a lot more house parties here than anywhere else I’ve lived. Last night, after the barbecue didn’t work out, we ended up at someone’s house in Escandón, a neighborhood that borders Condesa. At 2 a.m. — when we left — the party was still rolling. I think parties here end as late as 6 a.m. That is something I won’t be joining the Romans in.

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: calmita, culture

How to get business cards in Mexico City, if you have no idea what you’re doing

February 12, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

My friend Aura — also my soon-to-be landlady — took me to get business cards yesterday. She swore we’d find everything we needed in the Centro, which is the bustling, historic part of town where, once upon a time, Monteczuma ruled. (Then the Spaniards came and razed the pyramids to build a cathedral.)

It was my first time going there during the day, and I figured we’d just pop in a store and buy them. Oh, sweet, naive American girl….
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Filed Under: Expat Life, Mexico City Tagged With: calmita

Something is lost in translation here….

February 11, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Redman restaurant

I always pass this place on my way to the gym, and it took me about a week to realize that the cameraman wasn’t real — it’s a statue.

I’m confused on so many levels. Do people in Mexico like the thought of being filmed while they’re eating?

Also, everyone knows Method Man was way better.

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: cultural confusion

We got an apartment, maybe

February 10, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

It’s the one I posted pictures of most recently — the modern one. We haven’t signed the lease yet so I’m not considering it ours until then. If we do end up getting it, though, we are SOOO getting a grill for the outside terrace. (I’m obsessed.) Seriously though: Can’t you just see me going to the local tianguis and picking up some chicken and carne asada, and tossing it on there with onions and veggies and maybe a tortilla or two? Or better yet: FISH. (Because that’s better for you.)

In other news, we discovered a taco place we liked last night — El Farolito. It’s a chain, but they have all kinds of tacos and salads and sopes. Plus they sell Victoria in cute little bottles called “cuartitos.”

They called us “jóvenes” there. As in, “Algo más jóvenes?”

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: apartment

A TV blessing in Mexico City

February 9, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

svu-photo

Just when I started to get depressed about not being able to watch Law & Order SVU — I’m a junkie, it’s sad — guess what popped up in the cable guide. Law & Order U.V.E. — Unidad de Victimas Especiales. Even better, it’s in English with Spanish subtitles! Although Detective Stabler’s pecs only speak one language, if you know what I mean…

Most American shows have subtitles here, actually. My other faves are CSI and The Graham Norton Show. But they’ve also got E! True Hollywood Story, Gossip Girl, the Ghost Whisperer, Dancing with the Stars (the Mark Cuban season), NCIS, In Plain Sight, 90210, Grey’s Anatomy, Desperate Housewives and a bunch of others. Strangely, old reruns of Friends are always on at the gym.

In Spanish we tend to watch Rebelde, which always seems to be on. It’s like the Law & Order of Mexico, with cheaper production values. And it’s set in an elite boarding school and not a New York City Police Department. (Okay, so maybe it’s not like Law & Order at all.) However, since it’s a novela based around teenagers, it’s good for learning slang. We’ve already learned the word “neta,” which seems like it could mean “For real?” or “awesome!” or “Yeah!” or “bottom line.”

My favorite character on Rebelde is Roberta, who’s real name is Dulce Maria. She likes to dye her hair crazy colors.

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IFfiKkp-BEU&hl=en&fs=1]

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: TV

Tips on riding the metro in Mexico City

February 8, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Mexico City metro sign

I’ve taken the metro a lot in the past few days, while conducting what I’m now calling The House Search of All House Searches.

(I am so exhausted right now, Crayton isn’t even laughing at my jokes. Is it wrong to try and come up with a joke with the words “guten tag”?)

Anyway, even though the metro is generally hot and crowded, you can’t beat the two-peso (roughly 14-cent) price. There are a few weird things I’ve noticed though…
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Filed Under: Expat Life, Mexico City Tagged With: cultural confusion, subway

Our (new) current favorite apartment

February 8, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Reforma apartment kitchen

Reforma apartment living room

Reforma apartment bathroom

It’s smaller than the other one, but more modern. And it’s across the street from Crayton’s job. We may find out tomorrow if we get it.

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: apartment

A few more thoughts on the house hunt

February 6, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Real estate brokers here are really nice. I’ve met four so far, and all of them have urged me to tell them exactly what I want in an apartment. Lots of windows? Kitchen in great condition? No crazy wallpaper and thick lacy curtains? Ok, bueno, good to know.

What I’m most proud of, though, is getting over my fear of calling landlords. I’d been pretty scared to cold-call anyone, convincing myself that they wouldn’t understand me, I’d seem like a dumb American, there’d be horrible gaps of silence where neither of us would know what the other was saying, etc.

Finally I was like: YOU HAVE TO DO THIS. And after two solid days of calling, I have perfected my spiel. I set up appointments and have freaking met brokers, people.

My spiel: “Hola, buenas tardes, estoy llamando sobre el departamento en la Calle X… todavía está disponible?”

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: apartment

Snapshots of a Mexico City apartment search

February 6, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

My fave so far:

Condesa front room

Condesa kitchen

Condesa hallway

It’s on the north end of Condesa. Still looking at a few more places today, so we’ll see.

In case you wanted to see the reject pile….
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Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: apartment

A visit to Interlomas, aka The OC of Mexico City

February 4, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

A view from Interlomas

Crayton woke up sick yesterday, so we took a taxi to see a doctor out in Interlomas, a suburb about 30 minutes west of here.

I’d heard that any DF neighborhood with “Lomas” in its name tends to be really nice, but I wasn’t expecting to find the place so Americanized. Concrete and steel office buildings mingled with high-rise apartment towers, Volkswagen car dealerships, strip malls with faux-Irish pubs, and the hugest Burger King I’ve ever seen. (I think the kiddie playground itself was two stories tall.)

The pic above was taken from the front steps of the Angeles Lomas hospital. It had valet parking, marble floors, flat-screen monitors in the elevator and very roomy bathroom stalls.

In the cab, I made the connection that “lomas” means hills, and that this place could very well be The Hills of Mexico City. (Couldn’t you see the Latina Lauren Conrad living in one of those towers?) Anyway, I thought that was clever and told Crayton. He said, “Nah, it’s more like Frisco.”

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: Interlomas

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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