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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Lesley Tellez

Success on gas… maybe

June 8, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

gas truck

Spotted this truck yesterday morning while we were walking to the supermarket. We exchanged our tank for one of theirs (the thought of grilling steaks that very day was too exciting to pass up) and they promised to bring our tank back on Tuesday.

Unfortunately, when we got home and tried to connect their tank to our grill, the fittings didn’t match. Our tank has threads on the outside, their tank has threads on the inside.

We’re crossing our fingers that somehow they’ll fill up our tank and bring it back on Tuesday. If not, guess we’ll start hunting for an adapter… OR A CHARCOAL GRILL.

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: street sounds

A playlist for the rainy season

June 7, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

clouds

I got so excited when the rainy season finally hit a few weeks ago. It was so much cooler, and breezier, than it had been in months. Rain fell almost every day between 3 and 6, and the skies grew dark and morose. The best thing was to just sit in our back bedroom and listen. Preferably curled under a blanket.

I came up with a rain-themed playlist in honor of the weather change. Unfortunately, in the past few days it hasn’t rained much. Maybe this’ll spur the gods to open the skies again.

The Temporada de Lluvias Mix
In Honor of the 2009 Mexico City Rainy Season

Thunderstruck (AC/DC)
Dry the Rain (Beta Band)
Fool in the Rain (Led Zeppelin)
I Wish it Would Rain (The Temptations)
It Never Rains in Southern California (Tony! Toni! Toné!)
Blame it on the Rain (Milli Vanilli)
No Rain (Blind Melon)
Can You Stand the Rain (New Edition)
I Can’t Stand the Rain (Missy Elliott)
Make it Rain (Fat Joe feat. Lil Wayne)
Rain, The Park and Other Things (The Cowsills)
Here Comes the Rain Again (Eurythmics)
A Hard Rain’s Gonna Fall (Roxy Music)
Come Rain or Come Shine (Billie Holiday)
November Rain (Guns N’ Roses)
South Central Rain (REM)
Purple Rain (Prince)
In the Rain (Keith Sweat)
I Wish it Would Rain Down (Phil Collins)
Rainy Days and Mondays (The Carpenters)
Quiet Storm (Mobb Deep)
It’s Raining Outside (The Platters)
Rain (The Cult)
Stormy Weather (Pixies)
Raindrops Keep Falling on My Head (BJ Thomas)

*Pic above taken from our patio

Filed Under: Expat Life

The hunt for the gas man

June 5, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

We had to buy an empty propane tank when we bought our grill on Monday. Home Depot assured us that we could fill up at “cualquier gasera.” I interpreted this to mean gas station.

We stopped at the gas station near our house, but they said they don’t fill up propane tanks. So we decided to just wait for the gas guy. He yells, “Gaaaas!” every morning around 7 a.m. Naively thinking this would take a day or two, I went to Mercado San Juan and bought steaks and calamari and shrimp.

Ended up having to cook the seafood on the stovetop, because we cannot find this guy anywhere. A few days ago, I ran outside and found my street empty, even though I’d just heard a loud “Gaaaaas!” A guy cleaning his windshield stopped to stare at me, probably because I was still in my pajama pants and my hair was all wild.

This morning at 6:58, Crayton suddenly sat up in bed.

“Is that him?” I asked. We listened. I heard, faintly: “Gaaaaaaaas!”

He threw on clothes and flew out of the house. He came back maybe 10 minutes later. Nothing.

Where is this guy? Obviously he does not visit our little street. But we’re next to two larger streets — you think he’d be there, right? But he isn’t. The dude’s voice must carry for blocks. I wonder if he ever gets sore vocal cords.

Our next option is to ask the security guards across the street whether they know anything about the gas man’s whereabouts. We’re also going to ask the juice guy on the corner. If that doesn’t give us any leads, I think we’ll camp out at a cafe five blocks away, where I saw the truck two days ago, but didn’t feel the urgency to ask the driver any questions. (I was having coffee with the girls! I wasn’t thinking about the grill.)

If you know anything about filling up propane tanks in Mexico, please do share. I will give you a luscious piece of T-bone steak in return. Or a portobello mushroom if you’re vegetarian.

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: wifely musings

On being a kept woman

June 3, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

wedding photo

Seven months ago, I quit my job as a reporter to move to Mexico with my husband. With no job — and no plans to get one, since we didn’t need it to survive financially — I promptly felt extremely guilty.

What was I supposed to do with my time? Yeah, the writing thing, but what was I really supposed to do with my time? I wasn’t even raising kids. I was just… there. At home. Mooching off the hubby, and redecorating our living room. This didn’t seem honorable for a woman who spent eight years as a reporter, and graduated cum laude from an East Coast university.

Granted, I could get a job. But really, I didn’t want one. Or maybe I was just being lazy. Or worse, maybe if I didn’t get one, my husband would start to think I was lazy. (I told him this. He said: “Never.”)

I confided in my friends that I wasn’t sure what my identity was anymore. They told me to relax and stop worrying, and that it would all work out.

They were right, because lately I’ve discovered that I really like being a housewife. Re-reading that sentence, part of me is cringing. But it’s true. I derive joy from my housewifely duties. I’ve taken ownership of them. I’m proud of the work I do.

I plan the meals, wash the dishes, do the grocery shopping, take our clothes to the cleaners. I spend Sundays wandering aimlessly around the tianguis, a dumb grin on my face. I love serving my husband a home-cooked meal after he’s worked all day. Usually I even clear the plates. (Do you hear that mom? The girl who hated washing dishes as a child now clears the table with gusto!)

This isn’t the same joy that I got from working hard on a story, but still — it’s peacefulness. Happiness.

Maybe, after 3 1/2 years of marriage, I’m finally getting comfortable being a wife, and welcoming the fact that our roles can evolve. Of course I won’t be doing laundry and washing the dishes forever. But now, this is what works. I’m happy.

*Pic above from our wedding day in San Antonio, TX

Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: wifely musings

Home delivery service

June 2, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Yesterday, we bought a grill.

New grill

It was too big to fit in a cab, and since we don’t have a car, I figured I’d just have Home Depot deliver it to my house.

“Do you have home delivery service?” I asked the cashier. The word in Spanish is “flete.” I always think of “filete,” and then try not to call it that. Although, now that I think about it, servicio de filete would be awesome.

Anyway, the cashier said yes, but he was young and spoke too fast so I didn’t quite get everything he said. Something about outside.

Too embarrassed to ask further, I wandered outside and looked around, expecting to see some sort of storefront. Nothing. I went next door to Radio Shack and asked the workers there whether they knew anything about flete. They motioned to the parking lot.

The delivery service, it turned out, was a team of three men, a rickety truck and a hand-painted sign reading “Flete Express.” For 180 pesos — the equivalent of $13 — a skinny guy hoisted the grill into the truckbed and then drove me and the grill home. I gave him directions via the Circuito, one of the main highways here, but he ignored them. The truck couldn’t go faster than 10 miles per hour.

While taking note of the cracked passenger side mirror, the coughing engine, the mess of wires where the radio used to be, and the fact that I was seatbelt-less, having reaching for nothing but a frayed strap behind my seat, I tried to engage him in small talk. He looked around my age.

He asked what I was doing in Mexico. I told him my husband worked here, and that I was a housewife. He nodded. “That’s how it should be,” he said. He told me to be careful at stoplights, because men wait there and rob young, unsuspecting women in their cars. (Ok dude, whatever.)

Suddenly I realized we were in the far right lane, and he had to make the next left. The streets were packed; I didn’t think he was going to make it. But somehow, with the agility of a man in a Smart Car, he squeezed his way into the quilt of cars, managing to stay just inches behind everyone, without hitting them with his monstrous bumper. He arrived at the light and made the turn.

“You drive well,” I said.

He looked at me, confused. “Why do you say that?”

“Well, because you…” Cut across traffic. I didn’t know how to say that in Spanish, so I just trailed off.

A few minutes later, we arrived at my house and he unloaded the grill in the middle of the sidewalk, down the street from my house. He sped off while I wondered how to get it inside.

Overall, not too bad for $13.

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: apartment

The search for good pizza in Mexico City

June 1, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Berretin pizza

You know that saying, you never really miss something until it’s gone? That’s kind of like me and pizza. I’d always been pretty neutral about it, but since we moved here I suddenly want it at least once a week.

Not just any pizza, though. The recent Pizza Renaissance in Dallas spoiled us with thin-crust, brick-oven pizza, so that’s become our standard. (Well — my standard. Crayton will really eat anything with cheese.) After trying most of the Argentinean places in our neighborhood, and a few spots in Roma, we found one restaurant that passed the test: Berretín on Rio Lerma.

The pizza there — pic above — is cooked in a huge oven at the front of the store. Not sure if it’s wood- or coal-fired, but it creates a crackly, crisp crust, which is doused in a slightly sweet tomato sauce, a handful of cheese, and then — in my favorite version — strips of jamon serrano and arugula. After that, they drizzle the entire thing with olive oil.

At first, I’m kind of embarrassed to admit, we weren’t sure whether to tell anyone else about the pizza there, because we weren’t sure it was as good as we thought. What if our time in Mexico City had lowered our pizza standards? But my dad, an unbiased party visiting from the U.S., recently endorsed it, too. And a few of our Mexico-dwelling friends love it.

Now that my pizza restaurant craving is temporarily taken care of, I find myself dreaming of a pizza stone, so I can make my own crackly-crust pizza at home. The question is how to haul it back from the U.S. in my luggage. Or Maybe Wal-Mart might have one.

Filed Under: Restaurant reviews Tagged With: jamón serrano, pizza, Rio Lerma

The mysteries of recycling in Mexico City

May 28, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Before we moved here, my husband and I recycled pretty much everything we could. Our Dallas apartment building didn’t have a recycling bin, so we bought one on the Internet and stuck it on our sun porch. A few times a month we hauled everything off, in our car, to a special city dumpster.

Mexico City has no such dumpsters, at least none that I’ve heard of. Two recycling “businesses” operate a few neighborhoods away — they take paper and cans — but they require a cab ride.

I decided the Earth was worth it, and had a few bags of paper products collecting in my kitchen. My cleaning lady saw them and asked if they were trash.

“To recycle?” I said, hoping I was using the right word in Spanish.

She looked at me strangely.

“Doesn’t your trash man sort them?”

I didn’t know. Unlike lots of other neighborhoods in Mexico City, where residents place their trash directly on the truck, our building has bins in the basement. We toss our stuff there, and once every few days, the portero — Pablo! — drags the bins out to the curb for the trashmen to unload. I have no idea who our trashmen are, or how often them come.

So Lola explained that the trashmen will sort through your glass and cans, and basically keep what they can sell.

This was interesting to me. Was it technically recycling? Maybe not. But it did put money in someone’s pocket, and no doubt they needed it. I guess that was good enough for me.

Now — I’m kind of ashamed to admit — we just throw everything away, hoping a clever trashman will find our used goods a home. (Or a clever portero… but we know that’s not going to happen.) We do return our 1-liter Victoria bottles to the convenience store for a small fee. But we don’t recycle anything else.

Because of that, I’ve now found it easier to use fabric softener, which I used to spurn in Dallas. (My justification: “My washer is so tiny! I can only wash like five things at a time! At least they can smell good.”) I gave into buying Lola’s preferred cleaning products, instead of making our own, like we used to. On the upside, I do wash and re-use all my Ziploc bags, and we have a healthy collection of cloth rags that we use — or try to use — instead of paper towels.

But I’m not the green girl I used to be.

HEALTH UPDATE: I’m feeling much better this morning. My doctor loaded me up with antibiotics, and says I should feel normal within a few days. Unfortunately I’m on a bland diet for a week — no chocolate, no alcohol, no chile, no coffee, no sweet bread, no dairy products. I’ve been surviving lately on caldo, cornflakes, maria cookies and bananas.

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: apartment

The war between an alien bacteria and my sweet, unassuming stomach

May 27, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Last year, I got sick from eating bad food in Mexico, and it was enough to pretty much scar me for life. I had no appetite. I was on the verge of throwing up — but didn’t — almost constantly for three weeks. And of course I was always in the bathroom. I got so dehydrated I started slurring my words, which scared my mom. And me.

A few friends asked me: “Girl, you look good, have you been working with a trainer?” And I was like, “No, I have a freaking PARASITE in my stomach!” And of course everyone who knew I was sick always asked me what I ate. But trying to figure that out is futile. Everything I ate looked and smelled normal.

Since I moved here, I’ve tried to be extra cautious about what I eat. But I threw caution to the wind in Patzcuaro. Which may explain why, on Sunday and Monday, I got a mild fever. That segued into heavy stomach-rumbling, and finally, last night, the alien bacteria’s grand debut.

Between 11 p.m. and 5:30 a.m. last night, I could barely leave the bathroom. (Thank god we have Wi-Fi in there.) I cried a little bit. I cursed my stupidity in eating anything questionable only a week before my dad’s first visit to Mexico City. I tried not to get sucked into the useless argument of wondering what I ate, but I couldn’t help myself.

This bug may have come from one, if not all three of the following places:

1. The horchata I drank with my street-side carnitas in Quiroga. I think I may have seen a dead fly in the container.

2. The bean taco I ate, prepared by an indigenous lady we met in Santa Fe de la Laguna. Her kitchen had a dirt floor, so I’m assuming it may not have been the cleanliest thing in the world. At the time, I thought: This woman has nothing and she’s offering us food. It’d be rude to say no.

3. The carne apache tostada I ate from a very popular vendor on the square. Carne apache = ground beef that’s basically raw, but “cooked” in lime juice for several hours and refrigerated. It’s a Purepechan delicacy. And a HAVEN FOR SALMONELLA.

Going to the doctor at 11:30, so we’ll see what he says.

It’s weird, because I’ve been dreading this moment since I moved to Mexico. What if I get sick like I did last time? What will I do? And now that it’s here, I’m actually kind of at peace, because there’s absolutely nothing I can do about it. The bacteria’s in control, not me. (This is what she says now, on Day 1 of not being able to eat anything.)

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: health

To buenos días, or not to buenos días

May 26, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

It’s customary here to say “buenos días” or “buenas tardes” upon entering a place of business. Most people, I’ve noticed, don’t even pair it with an “hola.” Just buenas tardes or whatever and then on to their request. (I.e., two for dinner, can you dry clean these pants, etc.)

What I can’t figure out is whether it’s customary to greet strangers on the street. I’ve seen some people do it and some people not. So now, whenever I pass people walking by themselves, I find myself feeling kind of anxious. What if they look my way? Should I say it? Should I not say it? (My ansiedad could also stem from the fact that in Dallas, where I lived for seven years, it was considered rude not to smile and say hi to passersby.)

Once, I said it to a middle-aged woman who was standing alone on the sidewalk, staring off into space. She broke into a huge grin. “Buenos días,” she returned. The same thing happened in my neighborhood one other time, when I said it to a lady walking her dog.

In Patzcuaro, greeting strangers seemed much more common. People said buenos días when they got on the bus, and all the other passengers said it back. When I was hiking up to El Estribo, the town’s lookout point with a pretty view of the lake, I said buenos días to everyone, albeit half out of breath. (I was hiking uphill for more than an HOUR.) The persons receiving the greeting always smiled and said it back. Two teenage girls said it in unison, sing-songy, like they’d been doing this all their life.

The point is: I have no idea why I’m so obsessed with this, but I’d like to make sure I’m following the custom correctly.

If you live here, do you greet other people on the street? My rule so far has been that if someone makes eye contact, and we’re the only two people on the sidewalk, I’ll say it. But maybe that’s weird and wrong and I should just shut up because we live in a big city, and it’d be like saying hi to someone in New York City, which identifies you as a crazy person.

Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: culture, Michoacan

Back from Patzcuaro… and I’m sick

May 25, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

Patzcuaro at night fall

I got home yesterday with a 99.8-degree fever.

This was probably a result of drinking only a few sips of water per day, walking for several hours — including nearly two hours up the side of a mountain; eating too much crap, and not sleeping nearly enough. (Stupid fireworks woke me up at 6:30 a.m. on Sunday. Who is having a party at 6:30 a.m. on Sunday? Do Patzcuarians really party that hard?)

Briefly thought about swine flu — though everybody I talked to in Patzcuaro swore, “There was not one documented case here!” –but my mom, a nurse, said that since I didn’t have any respiratory symptoms I was probably fine.

Thought I’d share some more Patz pictures. The one above was taken with my iPhone on Saturday night around 9 p.m.

I’m not doing anything else today. Going to sit under my pink blanket, watch Adam’s Rib and Spiderman 3, and eat the cherry Jello that my husband lovingly prepared last night, while I was a zombie.

Click below to see the pics.
…

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Filed Under: Expat Life Tagged With: Michoacan

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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