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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Archives for August 2010

Grinding chocolate on the metate, the traditional Mexican way

August 6, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

Most people probably think of chocolate as being European, but the cacao bean itself — the bitter seed that gives chocolate its taste — is native to Mexico.

The Mayans were the first to domesticate the crop, thousands of years before the Spaniards arrived. (The name cacao actually comes from the Mayan word kakaw.) Later, Mexica priests and other upper-class Aztecs drank ground cacao as a beverage, mixed with water and spices. The Mexica venerated cacao so much, in fact, that they used it as a currency and imposed a cacao tax on conquered villages.

Yesterday at cooking class, Yuri told us we were going to make chocolate from scratch, in the traditional Mexican way. We’d each grind 1/4 kilo of cacao beans on our metates, drawing out the natural cocoa butter until the beans turned into a thick, glossy liquid.

In keeping with the way the nuns used to make chocolate in Mexican convents, we’d each receive a portable flame to place under our grinding stone. The flame would heat the stone and melt the cacao a bit, making it easier to grind.

I had no idea what lie ahead of me — a common theme in this cooking class — so I kneeled on my straw mat and began grinding with high spirits. The beans crackled and crunched under my metlapil.

We’d toasted the cacao beans in the last class, so pulverizing them produced this nutty, kind of toasted-walnut smell, mixed with aromas of intense dark chocolate.
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Filed Under: Reflections, Traditional Mexican Food Tagged With: chocolate, metate, Mexican cooking school, sweets

Homemade barbecue pork buns, rigged for Mexico

August 4, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

Some of my fellow bloggers have opined recently about the lack of good Asian food here in Mexico City. It’s true: if you want good Asian food, with a few exceptions, you’re pretty much going to have to make it yourself.

Alice recently came back from a trip to the States, where she ate homemade barbecue pork buns (known as char siu bao) at her mom’s house every day. She was dying for more, but they’re not easy to find here. So she decided to make her own.

She called me and mentioned she was doing this, so I invited myself over to hang out and take pictures. I don’t know much about buns, but I do know a good photo-and-cooking opportunity when I see one.

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Filed Under: Recipes Tagged With: Asian food

The most popular Mexican condiments, and why I love them

August 3, 2010 by Lesley Tellez

After a year-and-a-half of living and eating here, I’ve finally started to understand Mexicans’ deep, intense love affair with condiments.

For those of you who aren’t as well acquainted with how Mexicans — specifically chilangos — eat, here are a few examples:

1. People here eat pizza with Worcestershire sauce (known in Spanish as salsa inglesa) and snow cones with chamoy.

2. They eat sushi, gleefully, with gobs of cream cheese.

3. They pile tortas with layers of ingredients (do you know the torta cubana?) and mix seafood cocktails with ketchup and hot sauce.

4. Jugo Maggi, a concentrated, salty sauce, is ever-present at restaurants, to sprinkle on soup or meat or pasta. The vinegary, hot Salsa Valentina is often served too, to drench on saltine crackers, potato chips, peanuts and fruit.

Basically, a dish is not appetizing here unless it is salty, spicy, creamy, meaty and acidic all at once.

I used to turn my nose down at the whole 12-tastes-at-once flavor profile. But recently — maybe it’s taking my cooking classes or starting Eat Mexico — I’ve become much more appreciative of how peculiar and Mexican this is.

The torta, for me, has become a thing of wonder: a single sandwich, the base of which is avocado, tomato, beans and mayonnaise. (That’s the base!) The bread is scooped out to make room for the fillings, because it is not acceptable to pile less than one-inch’s worth of two types of meat, cheese, pineapple and a fried egg. (Depending on what you’re ordering.)

While cream cheese is not an authentic sushi ingredient, it is quite utilitarian in holding your Mexican sushi roll together, especially when said roll contains grilled onions and camarones al ajillo. Worcestershire sauce adds a salty umami kick to pizza. After taking a few bites, regular pizza suddenly feels… plain.

Lately I’ve taken to sprinkling Salsa Valentina on saltine crackers. It’s kind of like an appetizer and bar snack rolled into one. A year ago I would’ve never, ever done this.

I’m curious whether you find yourself adding a bunch of condiments to your food, too. What are your favorites?

Filed Under: Reflections Tagged With: culture, salsa

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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