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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

Where has all the cilantro gone?

September 25, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

A nice-looking, but rather wimpy bunch of cilantro from a mercado in Col. Cuauhtemoc, Mexico City

A few days ago I went to Superama to buy a few groceries. As I made my way to the herbs, I noticed cilantro was missing among the bunches of epazote, mint and flat leaf parsley.

I wanted to groan. This store NEVER has cilantro. Or… maybe it was hiding somewhere.

I asked an employee standing nearby if they had any. He shook his head. “It hasn’t arrived,” he said.

Arrived? Arrived from where? We live in Mexico. It should take up half the space in the produce truck! I didn’t say any of that, though. Instead I told him, “You know, four out of five times that I shop here, the store has no cilantro. Isn’t that odd?”

“I guess you have bad luck,” he said.

I bought the rest of my groceries, and ended up stopping for cilantro at the mercado near my house. But I didn’t see it immediately, which caused me to get all worked up all over again. (What the eff is going on in this country?) The guy there asked me what I needed, and I said in the sweetest voice possible, “Do you have any cilantro?”

He led me down the aisle, and pulled a thin, rather wimpy bunch of cilantro out of a grocery bag. I thought about bad-mouthing Superama to him, but I didn’t.

Later that night, I deconstructed the story in detail to Crayton. He told me that since Superama is owned by Wal-Mart, there is probably a reason why our local store never has any cilantro.

“They’ve determined there isn’t a high demand for cilantro in the community,” he said, very business-reporter like.

“That’s CRAP!” I exploded. Although I didn’t say crap. Sorry mom.

I don’t know why cilantro has me all worked up, but it does. This is a basic staple in Mexican cooking. I should be able to find it on every corner. And actually, it IS on every corner, chopped finely as topping for tacos. What about the poor ama de casa who just wants to make tofu dip, dammit?

I didn’t have enough for my tofu dip, so I ended up using it in a layered tortilla casserole. Which fell apart in the oven.

Somewhere up there, the cilantro gods, in shackles and chains, are doubled over and laughing.

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Filed Under: Expat Life

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Bob Mrotek

    September 25, 2009 at 10:19 am

    Lesley,

    I have a window box outside our kitchen window where I grow cilantro for just such emergencies. It is very easy to grow and as you cut it for use it grows back rapidly. You can buy a plastic window box and seeds and a bag of “Miracle Grow” potting soil for less than 200 pesos. Come on…put that farmer in you to work 🙂

  2. Leslie Limon

    September 25, 2009 at 1:41 pm

    Tocaya, I agree with Bob! Growing your own cilantro would add to your pioneer womaness. You already make your own butter, why not grow your own cilantro?

  3. Nancy

    September 25, 2009 at 3:22 pm

    I grow my own ginger and love having fresh pinkish ginger root instead of those shriveled up old things you find here in Mazatlan.

    Well, I have to run, a fellow expat just sounded the alarm that there are LEMONS at Soriana!

  4. Q.Peeps

    September 25, 2009 at 5:33 pm

    We shop at the local Mega. they never have ripe avocados. they have a million hard as nails avocados that take weeks to soften and then go back the next day. but never a ripe avocado. so weird.

  5. Don Cuevas

    September 27, 2009 at 5:33 am

    (A-hem) In the Pátzcuaro mercado, they give away small bunches of cilantro for free, with other purchases.

    Shopping for produce in a supermercado is just so wrong. (Although, I confess, I’ve done it.)

    Saludos,
    Don Cuevas

  6. Jorge Pedro Uribe Llamas

    September 27, 2009 at 9:55 am

    hi! nice blog. estoy buscando contactar a la comunidad de venta prieta en hidalgo. por cierto, excelente texto al respecto para inside mex. ¿podrías ayudarme? ¡saludos!

  7. chilangoso

    October 12, 2009 at 6:35 pm

    Great story! I looked for you at Linkedin, maybe you can add me to your network, I would like to ask you for some help. Thanks in advance

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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