India Archive

Three things I learned at an ashram in India

It's not so easy to pick an ashram in India, especially if you've never been to India, and you're not entirely sure what you're looking for. I knew I wanted to study meditation, and breathing, and learn how to quiet my mind. But how could I even begin to choose a place? What if I

The food of Bombay

We spent 3 1/2 days in Bombay, and I ate like a glutton the entire time. This probably explains why my once-comfortable dark denim jeans can now barely fit around my waist. (Eating huge plates of rice for lunch at the ashram, and then falling asleep for two hours probably didn't help either.) But really:

Indo-Mex fusion, and Jaipur’s lone Tex-Mex bar

It didn't take long for me to start thinking about how to fuse Mexican food with Indian. Both use similar ingredients (chile peppers, onion, cilantro, flat breads), and both rely on a variety of salsas and sauces to compliment each meal. While slurping coconut chutney at Sagar on my second day in town, I thought:

Delhi in a day

When we were planning our trip, we didn't necessarily want to just spend one day in Delhi. What can you see in one day? It's kind of a disgrace, especially if you think of yourself as the adventurous, special breed of traveler who has made it all the way to India. (As the guidebooks say

Finally back from India!

Got home Wednesday at 1 a.m., after a supremely long journey that included a 15-hour flight, a four-hour cab ride through windy mountain roads, snow delays, engine failure, and me walking around New York City with a scarf wrapped around my head, because I had no warm clothes. Strangely, I was intensely calm about the

El Hindú de la Condesa

While Lesley’s studying at an ashram in India, her husband Crayton is guest-posting. Please be kind to him. I haven't talked a lot about our trip to India because I'm sure Lesley's going to have lots of observations she wants to share when she returns midweek next week, and I don't want to steal her

Goodbye Bombay, hello ashram

I'm off in about 15 minutes to the airport, for a flight bound for Madurai. From there I'll take a three-hour taxi to Kodaikanal, and then a short jaunt up into the hills, to the ashram and my new home for the next 14 days. I won't have Internet access except for Fridays, when we're

Forts, camel safaris, and our arrival in Mumbai

I can't believe it's all already almost over. Crayton heads back to the States in a few days, and I head to Madurai for the ashram. We've squeezed in as much as humanly possible over the past week -- monkeys, camels, long car rides, strolls through 15th century forts. We ate Rajasthani food, comprising meat

A few shots from India….

It's been a crazy past five days. We've visited three cities -- Delhi, Jaipur and Agra -- and are on our way to a fourth, Jodhpur. I've eaten about a dozen pieces of naan, steaming and crispy from a tandoor oven, and I've fallen in love with aloo paratha, thin potato pancakes we've had twice

Off to India!

I've mentioned this on the blog a few times, but tomorrow I'm off to India for entire month. A month. This is the longest trip I've taken since… well, since I studied abroad in college. Crayton and I will be in Rajasthan for about 7 days -- Jaipur, Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Agra -- and then Mumbai