Restaurant reviews Archive

Where to eat in Mexico City: Nicos

One of my favorite restaurants in Mexico City, for most of the time that I lived there, was Nicos, a neighborhood spot off a busy avenue in Azcapotzalco. Chef Gerardo Vázquez Lugo has presided there for seven years, and his menu of traditional-but-creative Mexican food has turned the place into a citywide destination. He sources

Concha taste test #17: Rosetta Bakery

The conchas at Mexico City’s Rosetta bakery are quilted in dark, chocolate-sugar diamonds. The rolls are dense but somehow airy; yeasty, but not too chewy or sweet. On a recent visit, I gobbled almost en entire chocolate concha before my coffee had even arrived. The secret to these conchas is slow fermentation and a small

Where to eat in Mexico City: Café de Raíz

Some of my favorite tamales in the city are sold at Café de Raíz, a tiny Roma café near the Plaza Luis Cabrera. Owners Pola Carballo and her brother Mardonio Carballo offer a handful of varities daily, and they’re much better than what you usually find on the street or in cafés here. The tamal

Where to eat in Mexico City: El Parnita

El Parnita, a fonda in the Roma, calls itself an “antojería.” The word antojito can mean two things in Mexico — a corn-based street snack, or a little craving. So an antojería is a place where you’d find those two things. And fulfill your cravings, of course. The menu here is stocked with Vitamina T:

A new Haitian restaurant in Mexico City

UPDATE: See the reader comments below. It appears this restaurant has closed. A few weeks ago, my friend David mentioned a new Haitian restaurant he’d heard about in Santa Maria la Ribera. I think I’d had a little too much wine, so I crowed, “Oh my god, Haitian food! We have to go! Haitian food!”

Where to eat in Mexico City: Con Sabor a Tixtla

I stumbled on Con Sabor a Tixtla by chance. I’d been wandering around the Roma neighborhood, looking for a few new places to add to Eat Mexico’s Taco Tour, when I saw a chalkboard menu propped up on the sidewalk. Colorful tables and umbrellas had been spread out in a neat row, and baskets of

Where to eat in Mexico City: Dulcinea

Several months ago, a new friend mentioned she had a favorite restaurant in Polanco. I pride myself on keeping up with the latest restaurants, but she threw out a name I didn’t know: Dulcinea. The friend said it was kind of casual and cute, and she went there at least twice a week for fish

Update: Casa Mexico now closed

My friend Nick Gilman tells me that Casa Mexico — the restaurant I raved about earlier this year for its unique, regional Mexican dishes — has suddenly closed. Apparently the head chef, Enrique Briz, left sometime back and the restaurant slowly went downhill from there. It’s too bad. I really liked that place. Shame that

Mexican food the old-fashioned way at El Bajío

Chef Carmen “Titita” Ramirez walks a straight, firm line when it comes to Mexican food traditions. She scoffs at chefs who think carnitas can be made with Coca-Cola and milk. Or any chef (even if he is American and famous) who promotes such a thing as “Mexican chimichurri.” Mexican food has a base and that