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The Mija Chronicles

Mexican food and culture, on both sides of the border

The low-rider pesero

July 17, 2009 by Lesley Tellez

The inside of the low-rider pesero. Note the tinted windows.
https://www.themijachronicles.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/07/reggae-pesero.mp3

Yesterday some girlfriends and I had coffee in Polanco, and we decided to take a pesero home. I love taking peseros — they’re the rumbly, green-painted mini-buses that go everywhere in the city, usually for around four pesos. Since the routes aren’t mapped anywhere, you usually have to ask the driver, “Oiga! Van por…?” if you want to get to the right spot.

Jesica asked, and we ended up on the side of Presidente Masaryk, waiting. (As a sidenote, pesero knowledge is valuable stuff, and exchanged among my car-less Roma and Condesa friends like a good taxi service number. If someone knows of a neighborhood pesero that stops at a major location, like the Centro or Polanco, this fact is discussed and shared.)

After a few minutes of waiting, a pesero rolled up, but it wasn’t like any pesero I’d ever seen before. It was lowered. And boxy, like a Toyota Scion. Cheap black tinting film covered half the windows. The drivers-side door opened — squeeeeak — and reggae, the kind I’ve heard at Kaya, wafted out, the bass booming. The three of us girls exchanged looks (whaaa?) and got on. You have to get on quickly, or else the driver will hit the gas and you’ll end up half-hanging out the door.

For the next 20 minutes, until I got off at my stop, the twenty-something-year-old, spiky-haired driver kept the reggae blasting, fast-fowarding past the Pitbull and the Will Smith. (Guess this was a mix.) Everyone in the bus ignored the music and stared straight ahead, but I kind of danced in my seat, which I’m sure made everyone think I was a wierdo.

Then Alice, who was kinda jamming out too, had a great idea.

“I wonder if we can rent out this pesero as a party bus?”

DUDE. Imagínate! A pesero-pub-crawl along Presidente Masaryk. Rolling up to Celtics and Irish Pub Concept in the tinted-windowed, Scion-esque mini-bus. It’d be worth it just to see the look on people’s faces. (Of course, we know this could never happen, but the idea made us laugh. ….Unless maybe…. ?)

As my stop approached, I desperately wanted to get a photo of the pesero’s low-rider exterior. But I couldn’t get my camera ready in time. As soon as I jumped off — peseros stop for like three seconds, and not completely; it’s a California-stop kind of thing — the bus rumbled off down Rio Mississipi, reggae tunes fading away into the distance. Oh well. Thanks for the great ride, dude.

*To hear a snippet of the ride, click on the link under the photo.

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Filed Under: Expat Life, Mexico City Tagged With: pesero, street sounds

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. alice

    July 17, 2009 at 2:21 pm

    This is such a great expression:

    DUDE. Imagínate!

    I might borrow it. LOL.

  2. Joanna

    July 23, 2009 at 3:41 pm

    hahahaha! if the pesero pub crawl happens, count me in! 😛

  3. Ana Tamez Kendrick

    August 10, 2009 at 1:23 pm

    The sound clip was awesome. I’m laying in bed sick as dog right now back in San Antonio, and even I had to wave my hand in the air.

  4. Skotik

    January 6, 2010 at 10:05 pm

    Waouh, it makes me remember of my unforgettable trip to Mexico City from which I returned one week ago. This city and the people I met there are awesome, I’ve made friends for life.

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Who is Mija?


Mija is Lesley Téllez, a writer, mom, and culinary entrepreneur in New York City. I lived in Mexico City for four years, which cemented my deep love for Mexican food and culture. I'm currently the owner/operator of the top-rated tourism company Eat Mexico. I also wrote the cookbook Eat Mexico: Recipes from Mexico City's Streets, Markets & Fondas.

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